by Steve Selden | Oct 26, 2010 | Tour News
Churchill experienced the full spectrum of weather conditions this day. Scattered snow squalls turned to rain then sunny skies back into some snow squalls and finally warming up slightly by days end. Polar bears continue to build their numbers in the area as guides report groups viewing between eight and 17 bears on the tundra over the course of a day.
A polar bear resting in the willows in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area. Colby Brokvist photo.
Guide Brad and travelers had a stellar day out in the CWMA. He reported, conservatively, around 14 bear encounters over the course of the ever-changing day. At the outset, the group came upon a sow and two cubs crossing a small frozen thermokarst between Halfway Point and the Eastern flats area. Where else in the world can you have your morning coffee while watching a family of polar bears from the comfort of a heated polar rover?
Once out at the flats, the group viewed a number of bears, mostly males, in different behavior modes. One very large male sported a foot-long gash under the left arm. Brad speculated that this could have possibly been one of those bears a few days back that enjoyed the seal kill along the coast. There was some heated aggression between the fortunate feeder that day and this guy might have taken the brunt of the confrontation. This bear looked as if he was going to survive as the gash appeared to be healing up. Any wound or fracture too severe could spell doom for any animal this time of year with the harsh winter conditions set in.
Churchill polar bear by the airport. Colby Brokvist photo.
Moving back toward the tundra lodge area, a vibrant red fox was seen and followed for a short time as it tried to capture a lemming or two in the tundra’s ground cover. Then back around the lodge exuberant photographers clicked away as they were capturing arctic fox and polar bears in the same frames with various juxtapositions and interactions. No chasing going on this day but the two species seemed truly at ease with each other.
The wealth of wildlife sightings did not end once the group disembarked from their rover….on the way back into town aboard a shuttle, a big three-year-old male was walking along in the willows and along the lichen-encrusted rocks across from the airport. Once bears start to stray from the CWMA out East and explore the outskirts of Churchill, everyone comes to realize that the season is in full swing. Back in town, another red fox was patrolling the grounds around the ponds in front of the Churchill grain port…the group’s last sighting before heading for dinner themselves. Over dinner, the group recounted the day and their thrilling evening rover trip the previous night when another big male confronted the rover head on and planted his face and paws right up tight to the windshield. A pretty good 24 hours.
Guide Amy was wiping, for lack of a better word, “snot” off her boots recounting how an “unflappable” large male spent a long time underneath her group’s rover and sniffed and apparently slobbered on many boots. Unfazed by any human movement, the only irritation displayed came when he chased off another smaller male and exhorted an uncommon growl almost sounding akin to a lion. Sniffing boots can be risky business in the high North.
Also out by the tundra lodge, the photo’s of the day came when two bears were caught with a flock of roughly two dozen ptarmigan in fhe foreground. Rick the seasoned rover driver remarked that he had “never seen that kind of cool wildlife combo before” out on the land. The sun that was peeking through the clouds soon vanished and as the group sat up on the rise above Bird Cove, light arctic rain began to fall on the lichen splattered, gray rocks. A brilliant white arctic fox popped up from behind a boulder, posed for a few moments and then scurried off. Time for this group to do the same.
by Steve Selden | Oct 25, 2010 | Tour News
A calm overcast day in the Churchill region with a beautiful sunrise greeting transport buses headed out to the rover launch area. Temperatures stayed under the freezing mark continuing to facilitate ice formation on the tundra scattered ponds. No surf today for transplanted Californians.
Guide Steve Morello, returning to Churchill to guide three photo trips this season after a long hiatus, was enjoying a “great trip” with photographers in the group having some wonderful Northern light to compliment the animal sightings. A highlight of the day included a male bear breaking away loose chunks of ice forming on a thermokarst out around the flats area close to Gordon Point. The bear would then occupy itself with a frozen chunk..playfully tossing and chewing it while rolling on his back in animated fashion. Later on that afternoon, the shots of the day came when the rover pulled up to a sow and two cubs resting peacefully near some willows between Ptarmigan Alley and the tundra lodge. The cubs had that epic positioning of heads resting on their mom’s back as they huddled close to feel the warmth of her fur. Wildlife photographers paradise! A greater scaup by the bay was an added bonus for the birders in the group.
For guide Sue and her group, the day had an auspicious beginning with a polar bear mom and cub at Gordon Point almost in the exact area that guide Paul and group watched nursing just yesterday. A safe secure spot with ample visibility for any males looking for trouble….or a cub.
Polar bear heading down to the shore. Paul Brown photo.
Another medium -sized male bear was quite curious just as the rover moved up the trail toward Ptarmigan Alley. The bruin came toward the vehicle, sniffing at the bumper as if inspecting it and finally allowing the group to continue as they followed the coast road searching for birds. The bear plodded along the road as well. Churchill bird expert and guide Bonnie Chartier, between her own lodge groups, was on board to find all avian life in the CWMA.
Soon the group was watching black-bellied plovers pecking along the tidal flats on a stopover from their journey North to South. Some eiders were spotted in the shallows of the bay and some long-tailed ducks flew over frenetically flapping with plans for a Southern journey imminent. Long tails were previously known as oldsquaws but that moniker fell out of favor due to the negative connotations of the word squaw in English usage. Biologists similarly felt the name to be offensive to some native American tribes involved in a conservation effort to protect the bird. Sighting “political correctness” being insufficient to change the name in 2000, the American Ornithologists’ Union did officially grant the change “to conform with English usage in other parts of the world”. Phew….now I can sleep.
As the rover traveled East toward the flats, a male seemed to define “walking hibernation” as his trance-like slumber mesmerized the group. Opening his eyes appeared arduous while stretching catlike several times before returning to dreamland once again….mmmm ringed seals with au jus sauce…lick lips…cut.
The area was stocked with about a dozen polar bears all active and some endeavoring to spar. Lunchtime was a perfect reason to stay put and take in the action on the surrounding tundra. While enjoying hot soup and sandwiches the travelers watched as a young fat male challenged an older, skinnier yet taller male. The smaller male tried to tip the scales by positioning himself on top of a large glacial rock pushed into the area about 200, 000 years ago. Watching the balancing act was as enjoyable and entertaining as the sparring itself.
As the day waned a huge 900lb male polar bear walked past in the near distance and moved along the tidal flats uninterested and unfazed by the rover and its’ passengers. The light to the North accentuated the muscular frame of the bear as he became smaller on the horizon. As the group circled and then headed back on the inland road another set of mother and cubs was sighted resting peacefully in the willows..a perfect way to finish up an amazing day before returning back into Churchill.
Back in town, guide Brad told of a rare sighting of an all blue phase arctic fox in town. This fox will not turn white in winter appearing stunningly beautiful against its’ winter backdrop.
Guide Karen had some folks out on dog “carts” ..custom made vehicles used to simulate the snow. All enjoyed the experience immensely.
Sled dogs on the move in the Churchill bush. Colby Brokvist photo.
by Steve Selden | Oct 24, 2010 | Tour News
Sunlight filtered through dark embedded clouds throughout the Southwestern Hudson Bay providing a break in the overcast windy trend of the past few days. With the town of Churchill in full-on polar bear season mode, the main attraction seems to be increasing in numbers as well as activity level all across the tundra. Cooler air allows the water covering the land to freeze up and allow polar bears to travel more easily and directly.
The shipping process is finally in motion again as two new vessels have replaced the two previously quarantined at the dock due to high winds. Two others remain out in the bay to finish up the season at 22 total vessels for the season. Grain arrives in Churchill by way of railroad boxcar as soon as Summer harvest in Western Canada-mainly Saskatchewan- allows. As soon as enough boxcars accumulate to ensure a viable trip down South, then they are taken out. Right now 126 empty cars stretch from just past the port away from town like a makeshift wall between Churchill and the river to the East. The Via Rail passenger train, filled with weary, excited travelers, pulled in just a couple of hours behind schedule in the foreground on the main line greeted by the bustling historic train depot.
Polar bear hanging low on the Precambrian rocks in Churchill. Paul Brown Photo.
Meanwhile, the tundra of the CWMA was bustling with polar bear activity. Guide Sue had her group out around the flats region where five bears filled the landscape. Two males came together and sparred for about 10 minutes thrilling all on the rover. A mother and cub around First Tower near Ptarmigan Alley provided additional photo fodder. Then, out along the tidal flats North of the tundra lodge, a mom and two cubs were the highlight of the afternoon as they moved across the horizon with the Hudson Bay and dark lined clouds as a backdrop. Another five bears were all around the tundra lodge under the train -like structure and near the willows. All in all a “fantastic day” according to Sue….her travelers concur I’m sure.
A polar bear curious of Nat Hab’s polar rover. Paul Brown Photo.
Guide Paul and his contingent of avid folks were greeted soon after leaving launch area out near the tundra lodge by a female polar bear. She seemed to be ushering rovers into the area surrounding the lodge. Shortly after that action, they were fortunate to have one of those big males, this one about nine feet long, near the lodge, find the energy to climb up against their rover rearing his huge paws only a foot below the top rail of the back platform. A lot of arctic air was sucked in by those present.
The group then headed out East to the land by the first tower and ate lunch while watching the interaction between a sow and her cub. A change of pace from the earlier experience though just as exhilarating for all. As the pair moved off a for privacy, Paul’s scope allowed for great looks at nursing behavior. With another few active bears at Halfway Point and some great ptarmigan sightings, Paul described this as “the best day of the season”.
Guide Karen and her group enjoyed an enchanting evening dinner on the tundra lodge amid beautiful soft, glowing light before sunset. The mood was surely enhanced when a large playful male polar bear started chasing a pure white arctic fox in and out of the nearby willows. This amazing encounter persisted until another two arctic foxes decided to join the fun. All through dinner the animals darted in and out of the willows sometimes reappearing on the other side of the lodge or underneath the grated observation decks linking the different rooms of the lodge. Finally, the bear had enough and paused for a while, sniffing at boots through the metal grate. Then, as the lodge driver pulled his rover up to dock at the rear supply door, the bear sauntered over and stood up against the vehicle as all watched..even as chocolate moose waited on the table. Willpower.
A polar bear sniffs a boot on the back deck of the polar rover. Paul Brown Photo.
by Steve Selden | Oct 23, 2010 | Tour News
A pretty calm day in the region as the winds subsided somewhat and many groups headed back home while another band of travelers came to town. Cool temperatures just below the freezing mark felt slightly colder with the breeze of the windchill.
Images near the rear – view mirror may appear larger than they actually are! NHA photo.
Guide Karen was out on the tundra with her enthusiastic group. Amid the scattered thermokarsts, now almost completely covered with grease ice, the rover moved out between Gordon Point and first tower. A polar bear lying just off the trail on the edge of some willows took notice as they approached. The group stayed for a good while watching the reclined bruin as he periodically lifted his head and then reclined again. As they moved away from the bear and headed out they saw a large raft of surf scoters in the bay. A horned lark also flitted on the tundra in the drying foliage of long past berry plants. Near Ptarmigan Alley they spotted a bear off in the tidal flats sniffing and munching on some washed ashore animal part of some sort. The bear had some blood around the muzzle and paws. After his snack, he lumbered up to the rover and lingered about fifteen minutes under the rear observation deck. With increasing curiosity, the animal then reared up on hind legs and place his paws against the rover…his bulky frame coming only about a foot below the top railing. Travelers got great looks at the blood on his paws and face. Trick or treat!
On their trip back toward launch, the group spotted ptarmigan in and near the willows…two pure white and another few still with speckled white and gray feathers blending nicely with the ground. Another polar bear was spotted near a pond just after the turnoff to Halfway Point sitting up and sniffing the scents on the wind. Karen and her travelers watched for ten minutes or so and then headed to the launch and back into town.
That evening the group was presented with a lecture by Guide Bonnie Chartier on the first days of Churchill polar bear tourism. Bonnie and her husband at the time were the first pioneers of the then unheard of concept of ecotourism. Bonnie was standing in for Historian Bill Calnan who is also an agent for the Canadian shipping industry. Bill needed to be down at the port attending to a customs issue involving a ship.
Guide Eric and group had dinner out on the tundra lodge catered by Chef Sasha. The evening was a perfect way to enjoy the starkness and quiet out on the land in the evening. A couple of bears walked around in the shadows of the lodge and an arctic hare scampered here and there as the travelers enjoyed gourmet fare and good wine. On the way to the lodge, the group saw two polar bears lounging in the protection of some thick willows and after, on the way back to town, a huge male was caught in the headlights of the bus as he sauntered right down the middle of the road. We brake for bears…always.
by Steve Selden | Oct 22, 2010 | Tour News
High winds once again prevented the remaining ships out at five-fathom hole in the Hudson Bay from entering the Churchill River and docking at the port to load grain. Churchill often has prevailing northerly winds though these heavy prolonged gusts this early in the season are somewhat rare. It’s a great opportunity for all travelers to get a feel for harsh conditions experienced by the region throughout the long Winter. The polar bears of Churchill don’t seem to mind. The wind chill definitely bites at those without a furry coat.
Hudson Bay Helicopters still reports bears grouped together out around Cape Churchill in the East. Wapusk National Park has good numbers as well including a group of six or seven bears all gathered in a large patch of willows. Respite from the winds could explain these congregations. Some travelers were fortunate to view one of the largest bull moose seen in a long while. ..also in the park. Always a thrill to see these huge animals on the tundra from the air.
Trails in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area. Colby Brokvist Photo.
Colored lichen on the rocks in Churchill. Steve Selden photo.
Guide Amy and travelers had a solid day exploring the tundra. Near Halfway Point, early on, they had a smaller polar bear “crawling all over” their rover. Then after a long trek out to the Flats area, the group came upon two big males napping. Soon napping turned to sparring and the rover anchored down to enjoy the amazing show. Lunch was served as the two took breaks and then got back at it. Dessert was served and the two were still at each other toning muscles and honing their skills for protection. Just when the action started to culminate, another large male bear rose from resting near some willows and lumbered over to the two sparring partners. All looked bewildered at that point …the big male sat and the other two went their own ways. Maybe he was the referee informing the two that the fight was over.
The inland road back to launch provided ample views of colorful lichen species splattered over scattered rocks still straining to show their orange and green spores before the looming snows cover their light-source for the year. Looking back at the Hudson Bay the group took in an incredible scene with the old shipwrecked Ithaca in the distance and a polar bear silhouette in the foreground up on some rocks overlooking Bird Cove. A red fox was the final check on many folks’ list as they headed back…and sure enough one crossed right in front of the rover bringing tears to eyes to some folks on board. Great day in the CWMA!
Travelers with guide Karen experienced a bit more of a surreal, relaxing day viewing bears. Their first encounter was at Halfway Point as a male leaned in against a rocky outcrop, curious though indifferent with the rover, then positioned his hip back on the wall as if lounging on a plush couch. Stretching his long, beautiful neck into the steel gray sky to catch odors rising from the tumultuous waves of the bay, was enough to keep the group mesmerized for about 45 minutes. Then he finally moved from the spot and walked around the rover and sat down while coffee and hot chocolate were poured. On the Southerly side of the rover, a dark -phase gyrfalcon was once again stirring up annoyed snow buntings and riding the thermals gusting up over the rocky ledges. Two hours seemed like 10 minutes to all.
Later out toward the Flats, a bear that was up on another rover darted suddenly into the willows then came back out on the trail further ahead of where two other rovers were situated. As Karen and group passed them by and maneuvered closer to the four-year-old male, he would stand up on his haunches and give curious looks at the rover. This went on for a good 20 minutes until he finally disappeared off into the willows as fast as he appeared.
On the way back, along with Christmas Lake Esker, another polar bear approached and walked under the buggy sniffing the underside all the way and pausing to smell some human boots through the grate of the back deck. In the distance, two light and two darker caribous walked slowly together across the land. Binoculars captured their ghost-like steps in and out of the far off willows.
Sunset at the flats by the Churchill River. Steve Selden photo.
Guide Brent’s contingent had similar Christmas Lake Esker encounters viewing five caribous, one of those a calf, near the boreal forest that juts out into the tundra barren land. Prior to this sighting the group also had a three-year-old under their rover at Halfway point…curiously sniffing all over and then running off toward the rocks above the beach.
All groups, back in town, caught the zenith of the most incredible sunset of the season over the Churchill River. The pink, red and orange hues filtered down through the ice crystals in the sky and on the willows to create a brilliant glow that finally diffused to the North beyond Prince of Wales Fort and out past Button Bay.
