Take it Easy Churchill…It’s “Tundra Time”

You’ve heard the expression “Island time”.  In fact you’ve probably uttered it once or twice yourself after experiencing the casual, slowed down lifestyle of people in places that seem to have figured out how to enjoy life…well at least vacation life…usually by the warm, blue water somewhere.

Sundogs in Churchill, Manitoba. Brad Josephs photo.

Sundogs in Churchill, Manitoba. Brad Josephs photo.

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Well “tundra time” is a similar lifestyle but perhaps comes from the opposite end of the weather comfort spectrum. Churchill and the rest of the northern Arctic region of Canada moves at a pace most southerners would call…um…slow. And that’ s being generous. Maybe because the north exists in a cryogenic state of frozen time for a good part of the year there’s really no energy to go fast at any point. Tundra time.

When visiting Churchill, everything moves slower. Restaurant service is slower..hence meals  take longer. Vehicles move slower…especially Polar Rovers looking for slow, ambling polar bears. Maybe that’s the key…polar bears set the pace for everything around the area. They are in no hurry to go anywhere…except out on the ice. However,  they can’t make the ice form so they instinctively know to take it easy….cause it’s “tundra time” mon!

Polar bear cooling off in Churchill, Manitoba.

Polar bear cooling off in Churchill, MB. Natural Habitat Adventures photo.

The train….ha..well anyone that has traveled with Via rail along the Hudson Bay Railway knows the literal definition of “tundra time”. The train tracks often turn a 36 hour trip into a 42 hour trip or more. Why? Because the tracks wind across the tundra that contains permafrost….icy ground. When that icy permafrost heats up and melts a bit, especially in summer, the tracks move slightly and a speeding train has to slow down so to not exert too much force on the steel rails and then end up on ..er..the tundra…stopped in the middle of nowhere. Tundra time.

Most of all the people in Churchill move slower. Churchillian’s by and large are not going far. Well, they can’t drive far as there are no roads out of town unless you want to go to the Churchill Northern Studies Center or a bit further out to Twin Lakes. People in Churchill actually have time to talk with one another, not email or telephone. They actually meet at Gypsy’s or the Seaport Hotel and sit and talk for sometimes hours and enjoy multiple cups of coffee. There’s a “local table” at Gypsy’s up front that is just for that…talking….slowly … and in person. Tundra time.

Nearly everything in the north operates on tundra time. We should all experience it once in awhile.

Churchill Rocket Range – Five Facts

The Churchill Rocket Range at Fort Churchill has been an integral part of Canadian rocket research within the sub – orbital atmosphere. Located just east of Churchill, the site has been used since the 1950’s for multiple launches of various rockets such as the Nike-Orion and Black Brant. Closed today, the range has gone through many transitions over the years.

Black Brant rocket Churchill, Mnaitoba.

Black Brant rocket at the Churchill rocket Range. Courtesy Natural Habitat

Churchill’s unique proximity in the “western hemisphere” coupled with its wide open range firing northwards made it optimal not only for incredible polar bear viewing but for rocket launching as well. Test rockets are still being discovered today in the vast, wide open tundra.

1. – The rocket range was built in 1954 by the Canadian Army to study long distance communication capabilities and the affects the aurora borealis has on them.

2. – The site was closed in 1955 then reopened and refurbished and expanded in 1956 for the International Geophysical Year (IGY) in 1957. The site was then closed again in December 1958 when the IGY ended.

3. – In 1959 the U. S. Army reopened the rocket range as a sounding rocket test station. It was used to test rockets which evolved into the Black Brant utilizing new solid fuel propellant. Fire destroyed much of the facility in 1960 and 12 additional test launches of the black Brant were scheduled at NASA’s Wallops Island in 1961-62 while the Churchill site was rebuilt. In 1970 the U. S. Army ended operations at the site.

Churchill rocket range.

Churchill rocket range from the air. Steve Selden photo.

4. – In 1970 the Churchill site was acquired by the Canadian Research Council to contribute to the Canadian Upper Atmosphere Research Program. The range was used intermittently during the 70’s and 80’s and shut down by 1990.

5. – Rumors surfaced in the mid 1990’s when Akjuit Aerospace announced development of the site aat a $300 million price tag was imminent. A Russian company named STC Complex signed a deal with Akjuit to launch polar – orbiting rockets carrying loads on surplus, re-purposed ICBM’s as part of the START treaty negotiations. In May 1998 Akjuit Aerospace closed down operations from financing problems as well as the collapse of the space exploration market in 2000.

Churchill rocket range, Churchill, MB.

A closer look at the Churchill Rocket Range today. Steve Selden photo.

Today the Churchill Rocket Range stands as a reminder of the frenetic past in Churchill as well as what might have been had Akjuit launched the ambitious new venture at the site. The buildings near the Churchill Northern Studies Center seem frozen in time, suspended in anticipation of what the future could have been.

Northern Lights Adventure- Field Notes

During our Churchill northern lights adventure the primary focus is nightly viewing of the spectacular aurora. However Natural Habitat always seeks out the most intriguing activities in each region.

Natural Habitat guide Karen Walker brings her groups out to the Churchill Northern Studies Center to take part in a snow sampling demonstration. Snow sampling is one of numerous research projects going on at the center that travelers can participate in. The snowflake is essentially tracked from the time it lands through the pressure the crystals are subjected to over months. These crystals take on many shapes and sizes and create layers bonding to each other in some form. Researchers and scientists working at the center will also give talks about their research to groups of travelers.

Snow sampling at the Churchill Northern Studies Center in Churchill, Manitoba.

Snow sampling at the Churchill Northern Studies Center. Karen Walker photo.

Researcher explaining the snow sampling process to Natural Habitat travelers. Churchill, Manitoba.

Researcher explaining the snow sampling process to Natural Habitat travelers. Karen Walker photo.

Another activity groups are able to experience is slightly less science based though there is certainly a science to the sport. Curling is an ancient Scottish sport that involves sliding eight 40 lb stones with handles on top the length of the ice sheet. Each team alternates throwing the stones for eight or ten ends or innings. The object is to slide the stones along ice sheets, trying to land them as close to a center bulls-eye as possible. Strategy can become quite complex depending on the score at the time. Blocking and knocking other stones are integral approaches to the sport.

Churchill Curling club participants from Natural Habitat Adventures. Churchill, Manitoba.

Churchill Curling club participants from Natural Habitat Adventures. Karen Walker photo.

Justin Gibson’s group setting up for northern lights photography along the edge of the boreal forest.

Natural Habitat photographers enjoy the Arctic landscape options while awaiting the nightly aurora displays.

Natural Habitat photographers enjoy the Arctic landscape options while awaiting the nightly aurora displays. Karen Walker photo.

Northern lights above Churchill's boreal forest. Justin Gibson photo. Churchill, Manitoba.

Northern lights above Churchill’s boreal forest. Justin Gibson photo.

A thorough Arctic experience is waiting in Churchill, Manitoba!

Northern Profile-Churchill Northern Studies Center

The Churchill Northern Studies Center has been an icon of the Churchill region for long time. In 1976 the Center was founded as an non-profit independent research and education facility. Located 23 km east of the town of Churchill, the facility provides the perfect secluded setting for scientists and researchers working on many different northern projects. The center also offers a wide range of general public scientific classes as well as university credit courses.

Churchill Northern Studies Center with aurora borealis. Churchill, Manitoba.

Churchill Northern Studies Center with aurora borealis. Churchill Northern Studies Center photo.

The grand diversity of this region attracts a wide range of mammals, birds, plants and humans. Three major biomes diverge along the Hudson Bay coast and eastern perimeter of Wapusk National Park. The park acts as a natural buffer zone to protect the denning areas of female polar bears. The southeastern Hudson Bay lowlands lay claim to the largest peat – lands in North America. All this makes the location of the center a prime destination for researchers and students with diverse interests in Arctic research and education.

Churchill Northern Studies Center Earthwatch project. Churchill, Manitoba.

Earthwatch tree island meteorological station. Churchill Northern Studies Center photo.

Natural Habitat Adventures and other travel groups have been utilizing the center to expose travelers to the incredible facility for many years now. The center also has a northern lights viewing dome and observation station providing a panoramic view of the tundra all the way to the Hudson Bay.

Biodiversity in Churchill, Manitoba tundra. Photo courtesy CSNC.

Incredible biodiversity on the tundra in Churchill. Churchill Northern Studies Center photo.

Churchill Northern Studies Center Michael Goodyear on the lookout for polar bears.

Churchill Northern Studies Center Director Michael Goodyear on the lookout for polar bears in Churchill, Manitoba. Churchill Northern Studies Center photo.

Earthwatch research project and group at the Churchill Northern Study Center.

Earthwatch research project and group at the Churchill Northern Study Center in Churchill, Manitoba. Churchill Northern Studies Center photo.

Old rocket launch silo adjacent to the Churchill Northern Studies Center.

Rocket launch silo adjacent to the Churchill Northern Studies Center. Churchill Northern Studies Center photo.

Travel to Churchill….stay awhile!

The following story is from Churchillian Rhonda Reid whom has been working with Natural Habitat Adventures in Churchill for many years now. Rhonda has been gracious to be a local “correspondent” for churchillpolarbears.org over the past few years and this story is a great one. You never know what’s around the next corner…or snow-bank in this instance. Visiting Churchill to see the aurora can have unknown effects on one’s soul.

If you have a story you would like to share about travel in the north/Arctic send it in to the site or to steveselden17@hotmail.com and we will share it with others here. And, if you’re interested in becoming a volunteer at the Churchill Northern Studies Center, here’s the link to find out how: Volunteer.

Churchill Northern Studies Center.

“I like a lot of the people that I meet through my job,… if you’re reading this and I met you through Natural Habitat Adventures then no doubt you are one of those people. I have a guest on the trip I am working on now and she is just so excited to be here. A former teacher, she is quickly becoming one of the people I like. Today we went to the Churchill Northern Studies Centre and she was just being her fabulous self when she fell into the fulfillment of a life long dream. The Studies Centre is short a volunteer and my guest is available and excited about a chance for a new temporary “job”.
When she first started talking to me about it and we broadened the conversation to the point this could just possibly happen, she became more and more excited. When she was introduced to the executive director Michael Goodyear he thought that she was kidding. I’m sure Mike hears this all the time though this time it took this very intelligent man only a few seconds to realize that he was probably speaking to his new volunteer. Local Churchillian Kim Daley recommended her for the “job” as did the one of the center’s current volunteers she had contact with, and I, as you can imagine added my two cents as well.

Michael Goodyear - Churchill Northern Studies Centre - Subarctic Research - Churchill Manitoba

Churchill Northern Studies Center executive director Michael Goodyear.

I went to meet them for dinner tonight and she was so excited to tell me that she “got the job!!!!”
She signed on for a five- week stint at the Churchill Northern Studies Center as a quite excited volunteer. Washing a lot of dishes and helping to serve a lot of meals will surely be a big part of the position, while living a dream she didn’t really know she even had. The idea that there’s a place where you can work for a bed, three really good squares and a night sky holding a good possibility of a natural light show like no other, never occurred to her.

Aurora over the "aurora domes", a prime indoor spot to photograph the lights. Photo Brad Josephs.

Aurora over the “aurora domes”, a prime indoor spot to photograph the lights. Photo Brad Josephs.

The adventure began at the end of her Natural Habitat trip….or actually started at the beginning of her trip…well I guess this experience became all one in the end. I’m sure that Natural Habitat will lend her the coat on her back and be sure that she is properly geared up for the cold days ahead. Being from Florida there will be more to the traditional culture shock travelers experience being in a vastly different culture. Here in Churchill temperatures in the winter provide shock even to seasoned locals.
The word of the day from my guest is Serendipity.

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