by Steve Selden | Feb 17, 2015 | Churchill News
If you have been to Churchill you probably have heard of Button Bay. If you have been to Churchill in the Summer you might have even ventured by boat to the bay itself.
Sow and cub in the rocks off Eskimo Point. Stefanie Fernandez photo.
Button Bay lies northwest of Churchill just a short spin by zodiac around the tip of Eskimo Point and Fort Prince of Wales. From the fort you can gaze across the thickets of willows and wildflowers to the often glassy surface of the secluded inlet. It’s also possible to look across the Churchill River past Fort Prince of Wales on the point and see the glimmering surface of the bay.
In Button Bay the water is crystal clear and belugas are quite visible under water. Steve Selden photo.
The bay was commemorated by Sir Thomas Button in 1612 when he and the crew of the Resolution ventured to “New Wales”, as he named it for England. He is credited with securing the lands along the west coast of the Hudson Bay for England. The Nelson River estuary and Port Nelson within those lands, were named after the Master of the Resolution who perished on the journey and is buried there.
Sir Thomas Button.
On May 15, 1912, 300 years later, when Manitoba’s boundaries were extended, Port Nelson was included in the new territory designated to the province. Thomas Button is therefore known to be the first white man to visit this area in Manitoba.
Polar Bear along the coast of Button Bay. Natural Habitat Adventures photo.
Button Bay is a well known beluga whale hot spot in the summer. On the fairly rare occasions when whales are scarce in the Churchill River and mouth of the Hudson Bay, the 20 minute motor over to Button Bay usually produces pods of whales following the capelin run. On the journey by boat or zodiac, there’s always the chance of spotting a polar bear or two nestled along the rocky coast. I have often seen bears dipping paws into the bay or pulling up onto the rocks after a swim.
Button Bay is a little secret gem of the region. the bay itself is considered part of the Nunavut territory.
Come see the whales and bears of Button Bay! Arctic summer trips are still available.
by Steve Selden | Jan 16, 2015 | Churchill News
Those that travel to Churchill, Manitoba, one of the increasingly rare places on Earth, you can “leave it all behind”, as they say, should literally really consider leaving a few things behind. Not just the routine stresses or habits of daily life.
A sun dog casting its’ rays on an inukshuk. Brad Josephs photo.
1. Cell Phone-Although Churchill just upgraded cell service to 4G – high speed, this is a place travelers might refrain from using or even bringing a cell phone. I clearly remember the awful feeling I had after working in Churchill for about 10 years upon hearing cell service was coming to town. The “disconnected” experience, especially in such a pristine and wild frontier town is a dying phenomena. When traveling to a place that you might only visit once in your lifetime, let the mind and soul get the full experience. In such a tight knit community people tend to interact face to face as they often see each other almost every day.
2. Running Shoes- Even the most avid runners might consider taking some time off from this form of exercise in Churchill. Unless you plan to run around the nine or so blocks of town, and get plenty of strange looks, any long distance out-of-town jaunts are discouraged most seasons of the year. Unless you have a friend driving along in a car with you or you can run faster than 35 mph for an extended time. Now you could run in the dead of winter though it’s a bit difficult in eight layers of clothing and sorels.
3. Cats- Believe it or not a Natural Habitat traveler insisted on bringing their cat from California on a trip to Churchill. We made accommodations for the pet but that’s really not the point. Given the number of sled dogs in Churchill and north in general it really can’t be considered “cat country” by any stretch of the imagination.
My excellent room mate Buddy the cat.
4. Too Much Camera Equipment- While Churchill is one of the most diverse and inspiring places in North America to photograph or video wildlife and landscapes, someone who travels to Churchill seeking a fully immersed experience might consider scaling back, taking in the live experience and letting the mind store lifetime memory images. Now, serious or professional photographers will have a slightly different opinion but they tend to have mastered the ability to enjoy both aspects of the craft..enjoying the moment while getting their shots or footage. I have guided many summer beluga whale trips where some folks spent too much time and energy trying to get the one-in-a-million poster-shot and miss the amazing full immersion of the adventure. This theory translates to polar bear season as well. There’s definitely an aura that exists in these far reaching places that one cannot translate through a lens.
Natural Habitat travelers swimming in the Churchill River. Steve Selden photo.
5. Bathing Suit- The town complex does have an indoor pool thought the hours of operation are a little spotty. Unless you’re planning on taking a polar bear plunge in the 40 C Hudson Bay, which on certain summer “hotspot of Manitoba” days could be an option. You might also want to jump in the Churchill River ( more like 50-55 C down – river a bit), which I have done numerous times. So, actually want to bring a bathing suit and which retrospectively makes this post Four Things You Don’t Need In Churchill. We will leave this last one up to you. Skinny dipping is always an option.
by Steve Selden | Jan 8, 2015 | Videos
When you visualize snorkeling you usually think about the Caribbean and warm water lapping your tanning skin. Well, Churchill snorkeling is slightly different….about 30 degrees cooler in water temperature to be frank.
However, Sea North Tours in Churchill has all the insulated dry suits and gear to facilitate jumping into the Churchill River to mingle with the “canaries of the sea”, as beluga whales are known. This video has some amazing sound captured from the hydrophone equipment on the accompanying zodiac.
I can tell you first-hand this surely is an incredible experience you will remember forever!
by Steve Selden | Dec 30, 2014 | Conservation
Churchill is a funky frontier town with some unusual characters and a town center right out of the movies. The town is self-contained with just about every activity you want located in the town complex. Northern restaurants and bars line the main drag which is Kelsey Boulevard. Polar bears even saunter into town so if one is patient one doesn’t have to head out to the Churchill Wildlife management Area in a polar rover to see them.
Here are five attractions outside of Churchill proper that are worth checking out if you happen to visit the northern village.
1. Ithaca Shipwreck: Just off the coast near Bird Cove in Churchill, this old freighter is a classic landmark of the region.
2. Cape Merry: This iconic overlook on the precambrian sheild above the Churchill River and Hudson Bay is a classic starting point for any Adventure group arriving in Churchill. One can become geographically centered here and get a feel for the immensity of the Hudson Bay.
Natural Habitat group at the Cape Merry battery. Karen Walker photo.
3. Port of Churchill: A major economic stalwart of the town, this massive grain storage and port facility facilitates the cargo train as well as enormous cargo ships transporting grain products across the oceans via waterways accessible to the the Hudson Bay.
Grain port of Churchill.Steve Selden photo.
4. Observation tower at Goose Creek: In the summer this spot is a great place to observe various marsh birds and ducks. You also can get a distant view of an annual osprey nest as well as a clear vista about eight kilometers up the Churchill River. A quiet respite with amazing sky and landscape views.
Observation tower at Goose Creek marina.
5. Anglican Church: If you like the intimate atmosphere of a quaint church service, this is the place. If you also want to see a national treasure you can do that as well. The Lady Franklin stained glass window is displayed to the right of the alter. This grand piece of art was given by Sir John Franklin’s wife, Jane, in appreciation of all the search efforts put forth to find her husband and their lost Arctic expedition of 1845.
Anglican church in Churchill rests on the edge of the Hudson Bay.
Close – up of the Lady Franklin stained glass window Photo Karen Walker
by Steve Selden | Dec 23, 2014 | Conservation
Polar bears congregate every year around Churchill, Manitoba to await ice formation in the western and southern Hudson Bay. By early to mid November, polar bears are omnipresent in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area with travelers on polar rovers seeing more than 50 polar bears in a single excursion to the tundra.
Polar bear looking at the polar rover. Photo: Colby Brokvist
There are a few major factors for the bears anticipating the freeze-up in the Churchill region.First and foremost is simple topography relating to the location of the town of Churchill and the jutting land that extends into the bay known as Cape Churchill. As you can see by the map the shelf is quite evident.
While this shelf extension is not all that crucial in itself as a major congregating hot-spot, the contributing factors qualify it as such. Counter-clockwise sea currents cause ice formation to get hung up there. The stalling affect on the flow of water coupled with fresh water flow from the Churchill and Nelson Rivers, to name two of the biggest in the area, create the perfect formula for ice formation here. Since fresh water freezes faster than salt water, the ice will build early off the coast and then combine with the northern ice formed in the colder regions. That pack ice is pushed in by the currents and south winds. All this make for a “perfect storm” of ice formation at the most accessible place in the sub-Arctic.
Three polar bears explore the coastline anticipating the freeze-up. Karen Walker photo.
Of course, there is another reason polar bears like Churchill. Human population. A community of humans brings all the side benefits for animals…and in this case hungry polar bears trying to survive to the next seal-hunting season on fat reserves. The aromas and food by-products associated with human life attract every opportunistic species around. Around Churchill, top of the list are the polar bears. Before the old dump was closed down some years ago, polar bears would forage there all day and became a zoo-like attraction to travelers and locals alike. With the majority of that facility closed down, polar bear activity in town escalated over the years. The Polar Bear Alert program has become quite active in attempts to keep up with the burgeoning polar bear appearances in the town.
Polar bear holding compound in Churchill.
Global warming indications have also caused polar bears to appear on land earlier in the summer months. With sea ice coverage decreasing recently in the Hudson Bay, polar bears are being forced to come on land and seek alternative food sources. I can say from first-hand experience that polar bear sightings in Churchill have increased over the past 15 years. Guiding summer beluga whale trips for over a decade has allowed me to witness the firsthand increase in bear numbers. Bears have also become more successful at seal hunting in the shallow tidal coastal areas around the Churchill region.
Polar bear enjoying the success of a seal kill. Photo Paul Brown
Overall, the changes in polar bear numbers year-round have spurred Manitoba Conservation officers to adjust their strategy regarding bear management in Churchill. The feeling is this will continue to be readjusted even more over the coming years.
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