Check out this video of a mother polar bear and her cubs in Churchill, Manitoba a year ago. Natural Habitat will be wrapping up the season in a week as the bears head out onto the Hudson Bay ice. Some sows and cubs are still appearing on their way out to the seal hunting grounds.
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I saw my first polar bear through a window. No, not at a zoo exhibit or aquarium or anywhere in captivity. My very first visit to Churchill, MB I saw the bear through the rear observation window in the town complex that looks down over the “beach”, a word used loosely in the north, and out across the Hudson Bay. With all the polar bears meandering wildly throughout the area you wouldn’t think seeing a bear from the comfort and warmth of the building would be too thrilling. It was.
Sow and cubs along the Hudson Bay. Brad Josephs photo.
I was reading a report from Natural Habitat guide Karen Walker recently and she was explaining what her group was up to in the throes of some snow squalls, again words used loosely in the north, when they finally ended up at that same window viewing point in the complex. Here’s that account:
“Cape Merry was open, so we headed out there. Ranger Marcandre gave us some background on the fur trade then most of the guests ventured up to the “view point”. We could barely make out the icy river and definitely couldn’t see the Fort Prince of Wales. My intrepid guests headed out to the cannon battery for a brief visit and really got to experience the weather. It’s hard to imagine that the early explorers were able to survive in weather like this. Then we warmed up in the Town Complex. While we were up by the big window, by the Pioneer Gallery, a guest spotted a bear walking out on the ice, in the blowing snow. Then another bear appeared. They were heading toward each other. They veered away from each other and went their separate ways. Then one decided to head toward town, right toward the Enterprise (the wooden ship up in the beach-grass. The blowing snow cleared for a moment and we were able to see Bear Patrol parked by the inukshuk. The bear came closer, then they moved over by the Enterprise and fire- crackered it. It took off running, south along the shore. The other bear stayed out on the ice and headed south as well. It was really interesting to see it walking on the ice, but rolling up and down with the wind-driven swells. We never saw the bear close to shore again, but not too much later a bear was spotted in town, or near the castle. It might have been our bear.”
My experience wasn’t as dramatic though it was an incredible moment etched in my memory forever. As I gazed out across the ice -strewn bay, I saw the tell-tale yellow spot shifting over chunks of ice. Polar bears do not appear white when observed from such a distance and this one was quite small as I peered through the telescope mounted on the small ledge by the window. After some time, I was able to focus in quite nicely on the tiny bear maneuvering over the floes. Periodically the animal would step from solid ice to slushy leads and have to swim to the next floe. Watching this scene unfold touched the most primal instincts inside of me. In many ways it was more exhilarating then many of the hundreds of polar bear sightings I have witnessed since. Other than this being my first sighting, it was special because it was mine and only mine. From my mind to the polar bear across the expanse of ice I connected through my eyes only to a biological existence so unexplainable, how an animal could survive in this climate, that I felt this once in a lifetime experience deeper than most others.
Polar bear out on the isolation of the Hudson Bay ice enjoying a seal feast. Colby Brokvist photo.
I’ve since seen bears all over the tundra, boreal forest, in nets high above, in the compound, and in town. Yes they were exciting but in comparison up-close is not always better. The isolation of that lone bear surviving on the ice and in the frigid water will be frozen in my mind forever. It was and still is “my bear”.
Natural Habitat polar bear guide Brad Josephs filmed some footage of a mid-November blizzard in Churchill,MB. Blowing snow and drifting are the most dangerous factors with most of these storms. Enjoy some polar bear footage as well as a couple of frisky bears get energy from the cold and snow. Many more of these to come throughout the winter.
“Heading out to Gordon Point this morning…we came across Sparring bears just past first- tower followed by curious young bears near Ptramigan Alley…standing up on vehicles, under the grate…all around.” reported Elise just this past week. The bear quota for the CWMA is certainly filling up now.
Arctic fox combing the tundra. Brad Josephs photo.
Other sightings included a red breasted merganser in an open creek past the tundra lodge…a little late to be hanging around the north country. As it flew away the group noticed the duck had only one leg. Maybe a sign of it’s delayed migration to the south. Another thrill was spotted by a traveler as the group rumbled over the tundra trail in their rover. A mink running across a frozen pond surprised everyone, even the local Churchillian driving the machine. A rare sighting for sure!
Sow and cub polar bear walk along a frozen tundra pond. Brad Josephs photo.
Natural Habitat guide Sean Beckett returned to Winnipeg from a great week in Churchill with his group of hearty travelers! The action started just moments after landing in Churchill, when they came across conservation officers airlifting a 400-lb bear from the polar bear compound. What an amazing start..even though the group as there to see polar bears not watch them being flown away.
Polar bear airlift from compound. Sean Beckett photo.
Closer to town, various red foxes were strolling along the road as they made their way to the hotel. All this before even getting their keys to their rooms! “We kept the great momentum up with a great bout of sparring by two younger males near the lodge during our first rover day, and a handful of bears walking the coast between town and the launch site.”, reported Sean. Not bad for his first year in Churchill. “Our second rover day was complete with a wonderful encounter with a sow and her cub relaxing on a coastal pond.”, he added.
Big polar bear along the Hudson Bay coast. Sean Beckett photo.
After a long day on the tundra, the northern lights provided a spectacular show, so the group rallied to photograph the aurora at the edge of town by the inukshuk. An arctic fox scampered by tripods to add the cherry on top of a busy day.
Northern lights over the Hudson Bay behind the Inukshuk in Churchill. Sean Beckett photo.
On the last morning traveling to the airport, just when Sean and his entourage had thought they had seen their last bear of the trip, they discovered a huge male sleeping in the junk yard next to the naval base. Polar Bear Alert was quick on the scene to “cracker-shell” him over to the coast and away from town. Hopefully he’ll stayed out of trouble…and out of jail. “The bear forecast looks favorable next week, and I’m looking forward to getting back up north with another group tomorrow!” extolled Sean.
Natural Habitat guide Elise’s group headed to the tundra on a morning that was a bit breezy but slowly calmed throughout the day..”As the tundra turns the bears actually shook off their hypnotic-like state and started dancing.” Elise stated.
The majority of the day was time out around the lodge. Two polar bears slumbered in the willows near the bay while two other bears cautiously investigated the underside of the lodge once the water delivery vehicle departed for the day. “The stars aligned and two bears started sparring on the other side of the lodge”. reported Elise. Three large polar bears then staked out an area by the south end of the lodge and gave quite a show for onlooking travelers in both Elise’s and fellow Natural Habitat guide Paul Brown’s Rover. Another bear dozed, seemingly unaware beneath the lodge’s propane tanks the entire time..probably the older bear who’s been idle and present for the majority of the last two weeks..
Tundra around Churchill. Megan Koelemay Photo.
Dogsledding in Churchill with Kelly Turcotte. John and Becky McKay photo.
