Lights finally filled the sky for the second Natural Habitat Adventures group of the Winter season. Guide Karen Walker landed with her travelers at the Churchill airport and headed into town where they took in the amazing artifacts in the Eskimo museum. The day was calm.no wind at all ..a gorgeous Winter day. After a trip down Goose Creek Road and up the observation tower at the marina to view some pine grossbeaks, boreal chickadees and other birds, the group headed back into town to prepare for an evening at the aurora domes.
As the group headed out of town on the launch road toward the A-frame building just past the overlook where a major part of the movie Snow Walker was filmed in 2003, the aurora was already revealing itself slightly in the Northwest sky. A feint veil became more electric shimmering across the slate black sky. Once the group settled in at the Aurora domes, the sky was filled with the greenish color arcing across the horizon and showering down reflections over the Hudson Bay and up along the precambrian shield reaching up to the domes. By 11:00 pm,”green filled the sky and waves of aurora were moving like crazy”, according to Karen. Folks were definitely excited as prior groups had few looks at the phenomena. Morphing waves of green made for some fine photographs as well.
The following day was filled with cultural endeavors with Metis elder Myrtle Demeulles giving a talk on her Metis heritage and living on the land back in Saskatchewan. the rest of the day was filled with some excitement out at Joe Buck’s ridge with Dave Daley and Wapusk Adventures as the group had some amazing dog sledding time and general socializing with the animals. One of the rides caused a bit of a stir when the sled dumped two travelers and a musher and returned to the warming hut alone. They were quickly recovered a short distance on the trail and had a unique story to tell about the North. Feeding the gray jays out of their hands was another unique Arctic experience back at the warming hut and dog compound. With Dave away racing his “top dogs” at the Canadian Challenge in Saskatchewan, his son Joel gave the people all the information they could handle about the sled dogs and exciting rides as well.
The next night at the aurora domes was not as spectacular as the first though quite different. A diffused greenish snakelike movement across the Northern sky morphed continuously in circles above the domes as guests watched in awed silence. Unusual curtains of green and white also shifted quickly from one edge of the sky to the other…quite a unique appearance this night.
After touring the town complex the next morning with Dene elder Caroline Bjorklund speaking of Churchill history and Dene trials through their Arctic home, the group settled into the Churchill feel and way of life of a frontier town. And, since every complex in these remote Northern towns has a curling rink, the group was inclined to try their hands at the obscure sport. Luke Spence, proprietor of the town-run rink, was generous enough to facilitate a clinic for the group. Enjoyed thoroughly by all, this contingent of mostly Americans was surely “born to sweep” as they wryly put it.
During a warm night out at Goose Creek subdivision in Bill Calnan’s bed and breakfast…hearing stories from the local historian, Karen and her group viewed a faint aurora in the dark sky from the forest’s edge. With just a slight glow, the group reflected on how lucky they had been on the first night and even second evening given the virtual unpredictability of the lights on recent excursions of other travelers. The mild temperatures, just around freezing, made viewing outside the cabins quite comfortable.
Returning to the “big city” of Winnipeg following an amazing “enlightened” journey to Churchill, the group took in a gallery tour at the Manitoba museum ..a fine way to weave the strands of the regions varied cultural groups and history together.
Churchill sort of slows down this time of year with activity and news. Wildlife sightings diminish as well..save for some searching around for the eight bird species that over-Winter in the region. An occasional arctic or red fox appear from the windswept snow carving grooves into the frozen snow banks. Polar bears, sometimes just a short distance from land out on the Hudson Bay, become invisible with all the whiteness of the ice pack and the incessant blowing ice crystals. Sled dogs loose from their chains roam around tundra hummocks on the outskirts of town and would be mistaken for polar bears by novice visitors if this were October or November. All in all, the land becomes frozen in time and the town is not far behind. In a couple of more weeks life will start to creep back in somewhat as Gypsy’s Bakery will reopen its’ doors and locals will gather at the large table near the coffee machine to talk.
March is the beginning of the weather ” break-up” and talk of the river ice “break -up” will naturally work itself into conversation. The cold will slowly ease its’ grip on the region and ice will break free from the land and in the river. An occasional sow polar bear with cub(s) in tow will emerge from a den in Wapusk National Parc and venture out to the pack ice in the Hudson Bay. Daily events start to point toward the blooming of Spring and any early signs only escalate the anticipation. Soon enough the beluga whales will be heading up river to Mosquito Point and various gulls and terns will be airborne looking for capelin brought to the surface by those same feeding whales. Wildflowers….uh wait a minute..now I’m going to far…getting ahead of ourselves a little..save that for late march/early April. Winter won’t let go that easily.
So..in anticipation of the Spring though still not too far away from last polar bear season here are some of the best shots of that memorable season. Many of these shots will be archived on display in the new website featuring polar bear photography coming soon! Keep an eye out.
Travelers with Natural Habitat Adventures in Churchill last week were greeted by stormy snow squalls with periodic clearing in the night sky revealing constellations and glimpses of a ripening moon. Guide Karen Walker unveiled an Arctic experience-albeit devoid of aurora borealis due to the storm- that captured the imaginations of an avid group of many serious photographers. Magnificent pictures were produced that captured Churchill in the heart of Winter’s grip over the region.
A 36 hour voyage by rail culminating over the last barren stretch of the Hudson Bay Railroad line was a memorable beginning to the trip. Escorting three sled dogs for Kelly Turcotte and Churchill River Mushing provided a unique experience for the group and some particular dog – lovers within Karen’s clientele. During the trip, a couple of the canines broke loose in the baggage car and caused a stir before being corralled and returned to their crates. Karen was able to obtain a more proficient kennel in Thompson. A chilly late night, rather early morning walk in the Pas gave the dogs much needed exercise and stress relief for the second half of the trip. Just being a part of their transition from the South to their new home in Churchill will stay with these avid travelers forever. If not for them the trip would have been a “ruff” one indeed. By next Fall these pups will be pulling sleds over the tundra.
Arriving about 11:30 am the group made their way over to the stone inukshuk on the shore of the Hudson Bay just recently plowed out from a storm. This iconic symbol has taken on an welcoming tradition to travelers anxious to discover the Arctic’s secrets. The sentinel stone “sculpture” of sorts looms stoically before the vast frozen bay. For anyone who’s visited the north, this symbol is burned in memory forever. Also, personally, whenever I venture to an ocean destination I feel the urge to immediately go and take in the wild vastness of it all…frozen or not.
Native elders Caroline Bjorklund and Myrtle DeMeuelles presented their Dene and Metis cultural talks to the group and Myrtle’s caribou hair sculptures were eagerly purchased by many. Many of the native art and jewelery pieces in Churchill are unique, one – of – kind items only found up North. They all seem to be pieces of the land and derived from the fabric of the culture.
Churchill, MB image
Some of the photographers opted to wake early mornings to capture the rich orange glow of the sunrise. While out around the outskirts of Churchill, some of the unique bird-life that resides year-round in the area was observed. Hairy red polls out at Bill Calnan’s property on goose Creek Rd as well as pine grossbeaks, boreal chickadees, and common red polls out in the boreal forest.
Wapusk Adventures and veteran musher Dave Daley provided a day of dog sledding fun despite the -51 C feel with the wind chill factor. if one is mentally prepared then the temperature can be handled for awhile …chalked up to an amazing experience. Some of these same dogs with be competing next month in the Hudson Bay Quest from Gillam to Churchill on March 16th.
All in all another cold though amazing tour in the beautiful North!
The aurora borealis is visible in the Northern sky throughout the entire year. However, as February and March -prime viewing time- draw closer, so do hundreds of eager and somewhat crazy travelers to the town of Churchill, MB nestled on the Precambrian shield of the Hudson Bay. While local Churchillians often view the “Northern lights”,as they are also known,as a beautifully, majestic experience, they certainly find it hard to grasp why people from all over the world travel to Churchill for a chance to see them. Whatever stirs inside these brave souls for them to venture to the frigid, frozen Arctic can only be understood by someone feeling the same passion for the North.
Eric Rock photo.
Over my many years in Churchill I personally have seen the aurora in the Fall polar bear season and throughout the Summer months on numerous occasions…though August being the best of those Summer months due to shorter days and more chance to view them. The Fall season-October and November- can be stellar viewing but sightings are random and less predictable then mid-Winter. Predominant reasons for this is the 800 sq mile body of water lapping the shores of those Precambrian rocks known as the Hudson Bay. This massive oceanic bay remains ice- free well into late November and even then will not freeze completely until another month or two. This allows moisture to be sucked up into the air in the region which is at war so to speak as warmer Southerly winds battle Northerly chilled gusts for territorial rights. Despite global warming, the cold Northerly winds always are victorious only getting colder as the Winter trudges on. Sometimes it feels as if time comes to a halt…the past few days in Churchill have been in the -40’s C with that infamous “wind chill” factor. And yes..it is a very large factor!
Photo Brad Josephs.
Now that the season for viewing the lights is upon us, it is not always a guarantee you will see them. Last year was out of the ordinary as viewing was minimal during this same time. Travelers with Natural Habitat’s Aurora trips came away quite satisfied however as guide Karen Walker was able to provide them with a fantastic “Arctic-like” experience that cannot be simulated on your ipad from your comfortable couch. Just experiencing the harsh cold and the ways and culture of the people in the North embeds an experience one will never forget. There’s something about everything you experience under those conditions that sharpens the memory like the tip of a hanging icicle. Life as most know it slows to a zen-like stillness only enhanced by the cold. Senses are sharpened so that each and every detail of daily life gains importance. Dog-sledding across vast treeless tundra becomes a life changing event.
Speaking of dog-sledding …the Hudson Bay Quest is drawing near. Thirteen mushers are registered thus far to depart Gillam,MB and race 200 miles to Churchill for the championship. Charlie Lundie from Churchill will be defending his title as the first Churchillian to win the prize. Race organizer Dave Daley will also be mushing with hopes to win as well. I’m hoping to get one or both of their thoughts and expectations on the race in the next few weeks…stay tuned.
Leaving you with this amazing video of some aurora from space.
With Churchill caught in a deep freeze, some things are just heating up in the sub -Arctic town along the Hudson Bay.
The minus 30 degree C days and nights of January have not dissuaded dog mushers from entering the 2012 Hudson Bay Quest which will run the 220 miles from Gillam to Churchill. This route has been modified from the original course, celebrating the rich trapper history of the region. All mushers are self -sufficient carrying all the supplies they need for themselves and their dogs to make it to the finish. The course generally takes from two to three days to complete depending largely on weather. the original course largely traced the coast of the Hudson Bay and quite often was incredibly challenging when storms hit the region. Logistical complications and a need to streamline the race lead to the new, though still challenging event. Below is a list of racers entered so far for this year’s quest.
Hudson Bay Quest 2012 – Racers Registered
Ed ‘The Sled’ Obrecht – Otter Lake, Quebec
David Daley – Churchill, Manitoba
Dan DiMuzio – Churchill, Manitoba
Troy Groenweld – Two Harbours, Minnesota
Charlie Lundie – Churchill, Manitoba
Stefaan De Marie – Christopher Lake, Saskatchewan
Peter McClelland – Ely, Minnesota
Ernest Azure – Churchill, Manitoba
Burton Penner – Vermillion Bay, Ontario
Shawn McCarty – Ely, Minnesota
John Makayak Hickes – Rankin Inlet, Nunavut
Jesse Terry – Sioux Lookout, Ontario
Barney Kalluak – Arviat, Nunavut
The Hudson Bay Quest’s official website sponsored by Calm air states that only 15 racers will be allowed to run their dogs so hurry up and get your application in! Future blogs will give more information as the race draws closer and updates from the race with results will be available when the mushers leave Gillam in March. Gee…Haw! Dave Daley, local Churchill musher will be running his dogs again this year and hoping to be the second consecutive champion from Churchill. Charlie Lundie won top prize last year.a first for any Churchill entrant.
Brad Josephs photo.
Although the Fall polar bear season did not allow for extensive sled training for the local mushers and their dogs, travelers still were able to get a feel for the energy that a team of these beautiful animals exudes. Many of the dedicated mushers in Churchill run seasonal businesses. These “off-season” ventures often are run with hopes to raise enough funds to cover extensive dog-food costs that easily reach tens of thousands of dollars. Local musher Kelly Turcotte -owner of Churchill River Mushing-utilized his custom built wheeled sled -carts to guide visitors over the landscape and through willows in order to give guests a feel for, not only dog racing, but dogsled touring. It truly is a unique way to enjoy the undulating tundra and taiga environment Even though Kelly does not enter the race himself, he does an excellent job of showcasing the total experience of dog mushing in the North. Daley and Lundie also cater to Churchill visitors by also giving their guests amazing insight into the exclusive world of the Northern mushers and the intricacies to raising premium Arctic sled dogs. It’s not as easy as one may think. Aside from all the discipline needed to train dogs under normal circumstances, the additional obstacle in Churchill is the weather. Current temperature in Churchill is -48 C…enough to make anyone howl!
With the extended cold temperatures ranging in the -20’s and 30’s centigrade, solid sea ice has packed the Hudson Bay. The polar bear population in northern Manitoba is enjoying a cold Winter on ice with seals in their bellies. As usual the annual fears of late-season freeze-up were once again allayed around the third week of November when the Hudson Bay was solid enough for polar bears to venture off the land. A few bear sightings since then are most likely a result of Southerly winds that pushed ice out away from the coast while some bears came ashore and were temporarily landlocked.
Polar bear on ice in Churchill,MB- Brad Josephs photo.
Overall, however, ice coverage in the bay is down again from recent years accumulation. This Environment Canada chart on historical ice accumulation in the Hudson Bay shows the overall ice decline in the past decade. While temperatures in Winter remain cold, the “bookend” seasons have compressed the high -ice Winter season into a smaller time-frame. Although extended time on land around Churchill is good for tourism via longer polar bear viewing seasons, less time on ice hunting seals means leaner bears and sometimes more irritated bears as discussed in my last blog post on problem bears in Churchill.
Currently the ice accumulation for this season is looking decent as seen detailed through this recent Environment Canada ice graph of the Hudson Bay. In this case, unlike ice in Eastern Canada where baby Harp seals are born, red ice as portrayed on the graph, is good ice. All the levels of ice thickness are at the high end of the spectrum and although median temperatures for Churchill are down by six degrees centigrade, surrounding communities along the Hudson Bay coastline have all measured normal, in range cold temperatures.
Hudson Bay ice off coast of Wapusk National Parc. -Steve Selden Photo.
While ten or fifteen years of downward trend in ice coverage of the Hudson Bay may surely signal a warming trend in the making, we cannot assume this trend will continue without more evidence. As the polar ice cap shrinks as it surely is, more open water for longer time spans will allow for more heat absorption and thus further melting. How the polar bear population will be affected is still an unfolding story. This USGS study on polar bear population of the Southern Hudson Bay is a somewhat more in – depth review on how polar bears are being affected by the shortened sea-ice season. There seems to be a higher risk associated with new born cubs as well as adolescents rather than a direct correlation to adults with less body fat due to less time on the ice.
Quite clearly the past few polar bear seasons (October/November) in Churchill have pointed toward adaptive bear behavior as bears have been seen attending to more seal kills along the coast for supplemental nourishment. Even through my recent Summer guiding experiences in Churchill we have seen more Beluga whale kills in the shallow inlets or on the coast. Although no scientific data can point to these trends as real behavioral change, the change seems to be real. If bears can adapt and find new food resources, maybe the population wil adjust in the future. As of now the population seems to be holding steady with some Northern Inuit communities reporting an increase n polar bears. Whether these perceived increases are actually larger bear numbers or just more bear sightings due to more bear frequency due to ice conditions remains to be seen and documented.
