Churchill, Manitoba …the “polar bear capital of the world” is becoming a town with a bear problem. Or..are seasonal polar bears having issues with increasing numbers of tourists venturing to the town to view them in their natural habitat? The iconic tourist destination has always had issues with polar bear safety, however, the last decade or so has seen an escalation of what Manitoba Conservation titles “polar bear occurrences”. These “occurrences are bear encounters that pose a threat to humans. Although no person has been fatally harmed within the last couple of decades in the town of Churchill, more and more close calls are being reported each year.
Traveler numbers to Churchill have increased each year over the past decade placing strain on Manitoba Conservation officers patrolling the area. Although larger, experienced tour companies educate their guests on safety regulations, many tourists arrive in town independently with little or no information related to bear safety. Photographers especially are more prone to take extra risks as they attempt to capture images of polar bears, other wildlife and the Arctic landscape. Walking along Precambrian rocks near the beach or wandering just outside town limits is similar to playing Russian roulette…bears can appear from behind a rock or out of a tree stand drifted with snow. I personally have seen numerous naive individuals walking alone, unarmed outside town. After informing some of these people of the risks and danger of walking in those areas, they all seemed either surprised or unconcerned regarding their situation. Although no laws are being broken, other than those of the common sense variety, information needs to be more readily available to unsuspecting travelers. Signs, literature and website information could go a long way in deterring people from straying too far from the safety of town.
Polar bear danger area. -Steve Selden photo.
Churchill itself can be a risk when darkness falls and especially when storms blow in across the Hudson Bay. Polar bears, wander into town lured by smells and habit from years of curiosity. Shelter between buildings and under structures make the town a nice respite for these hungry animals awaiting the annual freeze-up of the bay. This is where the question of endangerment comes in. Are bears endangering the local humans or are the humans endangering the polar bears. Because the topography of the coastline allows for the annual migration of bears to this site, we must concede that polar bears would congregate here regardless of human population. However, more bears might gather here as a result of human activity and all the food scents and products that come with it. Both animals have found a middle ground of sorts forged by toleration. Bears are trapped more often than killed these days as the local economy is now driven from their presence. Churchillians have developed an information network for Conservation officers to respond quickly to bear sightings in and around town. Polar bear alert ( 675-bear) network has facilitated rapid response to bears in town and approaching bruins that may be a risk to human safety. This system has work very well over the last decade.
Steve Selden photo.
One variable that has crept into the polar bear-human relationship in Churchill is the global warming issue. While scientific evidence still points to a warming trend in the Arctic that could impact the animals more severely in the future, the main concern at present time is the length of the seal hunting season on the bay ice. With a somewhat later freeze-up in November and an earlier break-up in the Spring, bears are forced on land and into Churchill for longer periods of time. These extended stays are creating friction between bears and humans creating a new dynamic that needs to be considered. Being more aware as a traveler to the region is a start. Respecting the “wildness” of the polar bear population in all circumstances is paramount.
The annual doubts focusing on the Hudson Bay freeze-up were put to rest last week as Winter blew in across the icy Hudson Bay. Plummeting temperatures along with blizzard conditions allowed for the bay to freeze over quickly. All the banter over weather or not this would be another late freeze – up was allayed, by weeks- end as polar bears were journeying out across the frozen surface. Current temperatures well below freezing bode well for a solid freeze -up and bountiful seal hunting for the bears.
Karen Walker photo.
Guide Brad Joseph’s group arrived in Churchill just before the brunt of the Winter storm was settling in. After lunch, in town, the group hurried out to the polar bear compound with a couple of other groups to witness a bear lift. A great way to start a trip up North. On the way back to town, along the coast road, some local Churchillians slid off the road into a snowbank across from miss piggy, the old plane wreck, and Brad attempted to help push them back onto the road…all the while keeping a keen eye open for bears lurking nearby. The whole scene was exciting for the folks watching from the shuttle.
Karen Walker photo.
The following day the weather deteriorated into full-on blizzard conditions though right after leaving the launch site the group came upon a sow with two coys approaching the rover and lending themselves to excellent photo opportunities. Shortly thereafter, further down the coast road, five large males surrounded the rover. After some sparring in front of the thrilled travelers the bruins began digging snow -beds to take some respite from the blizzard. It actually was quite thrilling for everyone to watch a few of the bears get covered by the drifting and blowing snow. Most of the day was spent in the same area where all these bears were congregating…a great day for photo’s …capturing all the action happening around the land. The increasing windchill forced guests to move in and out of the vehicle to the back observation deck. Despite the cold, travelers were impressed by the power of the Arctic squeezing the land and testing the endurance of the animals bearing its’ burden. Arctic sea smoke steamed in from over the freezing bay pushed by gale force winds. The gusts also allowed for the quick formation of snow drifts. Watching the icy snow crystals blow across the surface was an excellent reference point for Brad to explain the Krumholz affect works on exposed spruce trees. Blizzard, bears and drifting snow..great Arctic weather.
Brad Josephs photo.
Guide’s Eric and Rinnie brought a photo group out to the tundra lodge and caught the tail end of a busy bear season with five to seven bears still in the vicinity. As the ice formed the bears gradually meandered out to the bay. Seeing and photographing the bears out on the ice is a rare occurrence only a few intrepid travelers capture on film. Just prior to the freeze-up, the wind was whipping over the open tundra and the bears were hunkered down. Almost instinctively the bears rose up and headed out. At last report from Churchill the South winds had since pushed the ice out aways and some bears had returned to land. Not long before they will be gone again.
Eric Rock photo.
The final two nights of the season for the photography group unveiled some of the best aurora displays of the entire season. Although Northern lights displays were few and far between this fall, these last couple of nights were absolutely phenomenal to say the least. And, being situated out at the lodge made for even more intense viewing and spectacular images as well. Eric Rock submitted a photo to spaceweather.com and it was published on November 23 on their site. Eric is a veteran at photographing and explaining auroral activity in the Arctic. What a way to finish off a uniquely fantastic polar bear season.
This past Saturday night the Northern Nights hotel in Churchill burnt down to the ground amid high winds and frigid cold temperatures. Miraculously, all occupants were evacuated safely. The fire started around 9pm and within just a few hours the entire structure of linked buildings was destroyed. The attached house, recently converted to guest suites was spared somewhat by the flames but had to be leveled due to structural damage.
Gord and Lynn Martens, the proprietors of the hotel, had recently completed nearly three years of extensive renovations to all phases of the facility and were looking forward to their first profitable year since taking over the business. They worked tirelessly, turning a run -down hotel into a fine tuned, upgraded inn that even served delicious food. The trials they went through and time dedicated to reach that point will never be factored into any monetary reimbursement. We can only send our prayers and thoughts to them and hope they will find some peace in the coming months.
Two Natural Habitat groups were staying at the hotel and were scheduled to leave on Sunday. Guides Brad Josephs and Brent Houston were the group leaders. Local staff and residents assisted in moving all people to the town complex for the evening for shelter and comfort. Everyone was cared for in the true Churchill style of one big family.The rest of the world could surely learn from the caring and hospitality Churchillians display.
The charter flight to Winnipeg scheduled for the following afternoon was pushed to the morning so travelers could get to the Fort Garry hotel to relax and secure lost travel documents. Many people did lose all their personal belongings in the fire and will leave with a tainted memory of what should have been an amazing experience. We wish them all the best and hope they will be able take some good thoughts and memories home as well. Again, we all take some solace in nobody being hurt in this tragedy. If the blaze had started just two hours later it could have been a much different outcome. Everyone is blessed that this did not occur.
The hotel itself was always a quirky mix of buildings spliced together to form one cohesive structure. From the rustic lounge at one end, attached to the the restaurant and kitchen, attached to the original rooms that felt like train cars, attached to the lobby and office, attached to the two-story “newer” rooms with “thin” walls, attached to the house at the other end, the hotel somehow felt like it all belonged. It all worked..well mostly. The people who owned the hotel throughout the years seemed to take on these same characteristics in order to make the business work. They belonged there as well. From Katie and Brett to “Big” Andy to Gord and Lynn…they all brought a natural feel to the hotel. This place was the quintessence of Churchill in how everyone and everything needs to embody many forms and possess multiple skills to survive. The hotel is gone though the memories will endure always.
The Northern Nights will be missed dearly by all who knew its’ spirit …though the spirit of the North will surely live on forever. Bears. belugas and beers forever!
Currently the weather in Churchill is Normal….for this time of year that is. With 50 mph winds and blizzard conditions pounding Churchill in the last couple of days, the rest of the season should be quite interesting with an Arctic feel to the region. Temperatures near 3F combining with the wind creates a chill more like -25F. Should the mercury hold steady in this range for another week or two, the Hudson Bay will start to catch up in sea ice volume. Every year just about this time things start to change dramatically.
This past week has been bountiful for travelers to the region seeking to take in true Arctic wildlife encounters and get a feel for the North. Guide Karen Walker and her group landed in Churchill and headed out to the tundra in the CWMA. Before even reaching the rover launch site a sow with two coys (cubs of the year) were spotted near the road out by mile 5..not a bad start to the afternoon. Another mom and two coy greeted them on the trail to Halfway Point and the group spent a good part of the afternoon with them. Lunch at halfway point overlooking the Hudson Bay and bear sightings on the way back later made for a stellar start to the trip.
Brad Josephs photo.
The following day the group headed out to Christmas Lake esker via the inland trails. Most of the other rovers were on the coastal road so Karen and her rover driver decided to take another approach to the area. Upon reaching the backside of some frozen ponds to the East of the esker, with hot coffee being served, another sow with two coys…third in two days, appeared in the distance. Walking away from the rover at first, they then turned back and tentatively approached before laying down near the road. As one of the cubs crept up closer to the rover, the entire group became still and quiet. Soon the other two bears rose up and came over to the rover as well sitting just off the front right window of the machine. Melting snow dripped from the rover onto to the nose of the smaller cub. For awhile time seemed to stop and then one cub moved around to the back grated observation deck and sniffed the shoes of the guests. This whole interaction went on for about two hours with almost half of that time up close and very personal. Karen stated that this was her personal “best sow and cubs encounter” in all of her guiding history. Pretty cool interactions. All in all, their 25 bear sightings throughout the day were very quality sightings.
On their final day in Churchill, the group was able to explore Cape Merry for a long time as the air was dead still and the air temperature was quite comfortable up on the rocky rise. As the group hiked out to the old stone battery looking out toward Fort prince of Wales, the Parcs Canada guide removed his government issued coat ..too warm for the day. Spending over a half hour out in the open where normally windy and frigid conditions prevail, the group was able to see numerous wildlife tracks in the windswept snow cover. The gorgeous crystals of the unblemished snow sparkled in the soft sunlight.
Helicopter flights lifted off in beautiful light …heading East along the coast and then flying into some clouds and light snow squalls. Skies cleared out as the trips continued and a wounded caribou was spotted down along the tundra…maybe the next bear prey and subsequent meal. Several bull moose and bears dotted the landscape in the amazing orange light reflecting off the coastal ice forming in the shallows.
Guide Colby Brokvist and group were enjoying a day on the tundra this same day and seeing amazing tracks in the three inches of fresh snow that accumulated over the previous two days. Interpreting the tracks and seeing what animals were moving around and why to some extent was a fascinating lesson on this sunny morning in the North. The bear viewing was “phenomenal” as Colby put it A giant male just near Halfway Point dwarfed many of the other bruins in the area. As they made it to “point proper”, Colby focused a white gyrfalcon in the scope. Purple dappled markings revealed themselves as the bird filled the lens. A long the coastal trail, a mother with her yearling cub out on the Hudson Bay ice moved slowly while testing the surface..teaching the safety technique to her cub. About 16 bears with a couple of sets of sparring sub-adults occupied the lodge area. The mock fighting went on for a good 20 minutes before settling down. Out in the bay the ice between the open leads was a platform for seals and the Arctic sea smoke floated in the breathless air.
Paul Brown photo.
Guide Elise Lockton and travelers didn’t have much action out at Gordon Point so they headed along the coast and then in to the area between first Tower and Christmas Lake esker. A beautiful sow and her two yearlings came right up to the rover and played with parts under the machine. Very curious bears down East. Elise and her group also saw multiple Arctic fox in this quiet lightly traveled corner of the CWMA.
On their night rover trip, guide Sue Zajac and her guests spotted a vibrant red fox against the white covered tundra on their way out to the tundra lodge. Once there, numerous sleeping bears greeted them with indifferent stares. One sat up and another three were soon sniffing at each others muzzles but decided not to tangle…rest time. The group was just off the back deck and they looked over at the visitors. The animal tracks held the shadows as the glowing sunset filled the chilled air.
That morning the group finished their breakfast at Gypsy’s deli and headed down to the bay to touch the frigid water behind the inukshuk in the Hudson Bay. As they looked around and took in the incredible scenery, a juvenile snowy owl flew over town and a raven perched in the steeple tower of the Anglican church…if they only knew.
Guide Sue Zajac reported “awesome sightings” from beginning to end in the Churchill wildlife Management Area (CWMA) this past week with over 70 polar bear sightings. One major highlight of the incredible day was a mother and cub on the coastal trail between First Tower and the point. This was the first such sighting for Sue and her travelers and they were awestruck watching the interactions in the willows close to the trail. Guide Brent and group actually saw a period of nursing behavior just prior to Sue’s group arrival. Both groups had lunch aboard their rovers as they enjoyed the serene setting and lone family unit. Up to just recently, very few sows with cubs had been seen in the CWMA. Now, more and more are wandering in each day.
Paul Brown photo.
After lunch, Sue’s travelers spotted four sub-adults sleeping in kelp beds as they wound along the coast and headed down Ptarmigan alley. Other bears were soon spotted out on the open tundra and a good number seemed to be young , fairly skiddish sub-adults. The animals would approach the rover but would be scared away with the slightest movement or sound on the rover. Odd bear behavior uncharacteristic of the CWMA.
As the rover continued along and came to the junction of Christmas Lake esker and the inland road from Gordon Point, the group came upon another smaller young polar bear..quite possibly the abandoned animal a few other groups have seen recently, running and moving at a rapid pace for about 10 minutes. A sow with a coy were also very close to the rover and the lone cub ‘s frantic movement reinforced the theory that the cub might just be abandoned. Abandoned cubs will often try to group up with a sow and another young cub or coy for safety and sustenance….this mom was having none of that. Although instinctively a sow may want to take in a cub, the severity of an Arctic Winter on the ice usually makes her decide otherwise.
Brad Josephs photo.
By far the highlight of a great day on the tundra for Sue and travelers was a sighting of the smallest animal around. On the way to Gordon Point, passing by the tundra lodge,a lemming scurried across the trail and landed on a rock jutting up from the ice in the middle of a icy covered pond. After resting there under cover from any nearby raptors, it made its’ way to an a crack of open water and took a swim. Guests watched as if they were watching a majestic polar bear not the main diet for gyrfalcons and snowy owls. As he emerged from the water he then seemingly blew across the ice with aid from a little gust. Once on land the lemming ran right in front of the rover and bedded down by a five-inch orange-lichen colored rock protruding from the snow cover. Occasionally digging down under the snow, while all in the group were watching, he eventually uncovered what appeared to be a tunnel opening. Under the snow and out of sight he went. Captivating.
Back in Churchill there has been a constant array of cracker shell action in and around town with bears being snuffed out of the rocky coast and even a few in town itself. It’s a feeling one cannot describe adequately though elicits ideas in the mind of what a war zone might be like. In some ways Churchill at night can be as scary as that when one is walking around in the wrong places. Even daytime can lead to one’s demise by wandering away from a door to duck into. Just last week a photographer was seen a good ways out of town outside his vehicle trying to photograph a bear bedded down in the willows across a frozen lake. He was observed being so intent on his camera equipment that he was not checking his surroundings. Another visitor was observed up at Bird Cove a couple of hundred feet from his rented car wandering toward the rocks on the rise. Dangerous endeavors and surely only a matter of time before an attack. Bearmeat!
Brad Josephs photo.
Longtime Natural Habitat naturalist guide Mike Bruscia returned to Churchill after being away a couple of seasons to guide a group around the tundra and this coastal sub -Arctic village. Mike currently is executive director of an kids environmental camp in Charlottesville, VA called the Green Adventure Project. Aside from incredible polar bear sightings, out in the CWMA, the thrill of the day was out at First Tower where a polar bear tried to pick a gyrfalcon off one of the cable supports half way up the structure. Up on his hind legs…the huge torso stretched skyward as Mike’s travelers gasped at the sight. A sow with two coys (cubs of the year) nursing, nine hundred- pound males sparring at the lodge and an Arctic fox finally revealing itself to the group completed an amazing tundra experience. Trifecta!
Brad Josephs photo.
Exploring around Churchill, Mike and his group went over to the Cape Merry area and spotted a bear in the rocks. The ice is starting to clog the outflow of the Churchill river around the mouth and getting pretty thick up -river near the weir. The group also spotted a red fox and plenty of fresh hare tracks at Cape Merry but no hare. With one last look on their final day the hare was spotted just North of the train tracks. Mikes skill for finding elusive animals is legendary. Bears, hares, foxes and birds..all in a day’s work in the Arctic.
The group had some amazing meals in Churchill topped off with a run on carrot cake for almost every dessert. Amazing how in a place where you couldn’t grow a carrot to save your life…damn that permafrost…the guests referred to the Churchill as the carrot cake capital of the world!
Colder temperatures dipping slightly below freezing and a scattering of snow squalls has provided an Arctic backdrop for more active polar bears and other wildlife sightings out on the tundra. While it has taken a long time this season to cool down temperature-wise, the action in the CWMA is heating up a little more each day.
paul Brown photo.
Natural Habitat guide Sandra Elvin and travelers had a “phenomenal day” out in the CWMA. In the early morning they headed a long way out East in their rover and spotted a white-morph colored gyrfalcon perched atop the highest point of first tower, an old military observation post for cold weather maneuvers during the “cold war”…how fitting. A majestic icon of the North, the gyrfalcon greets visitors with a stoic glance…more intent on locating a lemming or hare below. Shortly later, as the rover moved further North, a sow with two cubs of the year (coy’s) appeared on one side of the rover in the low willows. The scent of a large male just on the other side of the vehicle alerted mom and she corralled her two young and ran back toward the coast throwing cautious glances back toward the rover and lurking male.
Brad Josephs photo.
At Gordon Point the group settled in for lunch but were interrupted shortly before the main course by a beautiful, curious and very shy female investigating the guests and vehicle. For more than 30 minutes she would tentatively approach the machine and then quickly back away. Many in the group were moved to tears as her beauty and hesitancy touched indescribable emotions. These feelings took another turn as a small cub, perhaps nearly two-years of age, came running at a frantic pace. He was alone and frightened by many of the larger bears in the area..and there were a good many luring in the willows. Mom seemed to be nowhere in sight.
On their way back to launch, the group spotted many more bears in the willows and a few walking across the freshwater frozen thermakarsts. Bears were on the move ..wandering the tundra. The day finished as it had started with a magnificent raptor saluting them as they passed…this time a snowy owl on a rock across a pond.
Helicopter journey’s revealing a multitude of moose and bears out around Cape Churchill and feisty sled dogs ushering wheeled carts through trails concealed by willows highlighted the group’s final day …. an amazing Arctic experience for all.
Brad Josephs photo.
Meanwhile guide Sue Zajac and her folks journeyed to the tundra following a day of high winds that caused many polar bears to bed down and rest. As they headed out to Halfway Point in search of wildlife, they were happily distracted by three large bears walking in the vicinity of the tundra lodge. A gyrfalcon glided overhead while the group followed the bruins across the land. The raptor soared above the willows, along side of the rover and then landed on the trail resting on a rock directly in front of the group’s vehicle. A whirlwind of action all around.
Out near the lodge, a snowy owl balanced atop a black spruce swaying in the breeze while the guests took in about 12 bears taking turns sparring in pairs. A few sub-groups of three and four males sizing each other up before play- fighting commanded the attention of the guests. Sniffing each other seems to be a prelude to determining which bear will spar with which. Once paired off, the others in the area move away while two go at it. Almost like an age old custom passed on through generations.
Much like Sandra’s group, Sue’s travelers finished the final day of their trip with an exhilarating dogsled ride through the willows and frozen ponds about 10 minutes outside Churchill with Kelly and Earnest at Churchill River Mushing. After the ride, the mushers invite the guests into the warming tent for a hot chocolate and informal discussion about dog sledding and being out on the land. Thoroughly enjoyed by all.
Brad Josephs photo.
Amid the vast open landscape near the tundra lodge, guide Brad Josephs had his rover positioned right in the mix of the action. Sparring bears dotted the landscape in every direction. While enjoying the amazing photogenic behavior, Brad and group noticed a raven hovering over and then landing in the rocks on the spit that juts into the Hudson Bay. This rocky peninsula is normally a polar bear resting area but the resident bear the group was viewing through the spotting scope on the rover was certainly not resting. Covered with red blood on its’ face and shoulders, the polar bear was devouring some sort of animal carcass in the rocks. The rover was not able to get the angle necessary to aptly identify the animal. At one point four polar bears were all dividing the spoils and sharing fairly well without incident. Suddenly, a young two-year old cub ran over and grabbed a chunk of meat right out from under the bloody snouts of the older bears. Quite a daring maneuver…but thrilling to witness!
A bit later the original large, bloody boar wandered along the spit back toward the lodge appearing to be in a “food coma” as Brad put it. Brad also thought that the carcass was most likely that of a bearded seal with the slight possibility it might have been the mother of the wayward lone cub Sandra and a couple of other guides had noticed wandering the tundra. The ribbed chunk of meat the female cub was carrying lead to the stronger possibility that it was the seal.
The next day on the tundra in the CWMA the bears were everywhere…sparring, sleeping- using rocks as pillows-..and just spread across the land as snowflakes fell off and on. Three sets of sparring bears and a sow with two coys kept the travelers quite satisfied to stay in lodge area the whole day. Wandering bears were within sight all over the tundra. A final spectacular memory was forged when a gyrfalcon zoomed right past the front of the rover at about 75mph. Awestruck…it was time to head back to the launch and then to town for some night photography at the stone inukshuk on the town beach.
