by Steve Selden | Oct 10, 2010 | Tour News
The bears are coming! The bears are coming! Churchill greets its favorite seasonal visitors, the polar bears! NHA photo.
And they’re off… the 2010 Churchill Polar Bear season is here at last, much to the delight of all involved. Churchill will welcome thousands of travelers over the next seven weeks including such holidays as Halloween, Thanksgiving (both Canadian and US versions) and most importantly, All-Saints Day… which doubles as my birthday. From the first day, the season seems like one long holiday festival with sparkling lights lining Kelsey Boulevard and bustling action throughout town. Excitement and something unique is around every corner as well as every rock along the Hudson Bay.
If the summer season is any indication of what we have in store for us, this October and November there will be prodigious numbers of polar bears in the Churchill region. Bears frequently can be seen in summer, though not normally in the numbers we have seen this year. Natural Habitat guide Sue reported seeing up to 15 bears in July and August while out with groups enjoying Beluga whale excursions on the Churchill River. Rarely does summer see the need for conservation officers to detain bears in the polar bear compound. But this August, up to eight bears were being held at one time. Seeing the bears outside the traditional fall season is uniquely special. As early as June, guide and infamous bird expert Bonnie Chartier reported “good numbers of polar bears” on the land all over the area. Another uncharacteristic trend was the frequent sightings of polar bear mothers with triplets in tow. It will be interesting to see how many of these family units are spotted in the willows and snowdrifts over the coming two months out on the tundra. It surely sets up to be a banner year for the polar bear census.
These oddities in polar bear behavior may be warnings of trends in global warming. Perhaps early ice melt in the bay are driving bears on land earlier in the spring up north so that more arrive in Churchill in early summer. As for the mothers with more cubs, increased snowfall may allow for longer and better denning conditions. At first thought, increased snowfall would seem to signal colder conditions but it actually could oppose such a theory. More moisture in the air stemming from open water on the Hudson Bay and warmer, moist air coming to the region translates to more snow. This is great for denning though the new arrivals will need long-lasting solid ice later on to fill their seal quota. Only time will tell.
For you birders out there, guide Bonnie advised on the highlights of this past season’s sightings. Although no coveted Ross’ gull sightings were reported this summer, there were some birds of a different feather. Numerous Glaucous gulls and Northern wheateaters were observed early on. Due to the warmer days, eastern and western kingbirds were seen on a regular basis as well. With some cold days, sightings of Smith’s longspurs numbers dropped off dramatically from previous years. A few more Long- Tailed jaegers helped balance the bird checklist books of all present. Aside from bear activity, guide Bonnie will be intent on seeking out Brandt geese and Purple sandpipers as well as the usual suspects in the next week or so. Will this be the season of the Snowy owl or will they be scarce again? How goes the territorial battle between Arctic and Red fox? What will be the big story of this season? We will see.
It’s looking like another exciting Polar bear season in Churchill is just underway… tune in here for daily updates!
For What It’s Worth: One day this summer in Churchill, Prime Minister Stephen Harper stopped in to announce upgrades to the Churchill airport. Meanwhile a weasel was live-trapped inside the northern store in town and let go. Soon after the Prime Minister was on a flight heading north.
by Steve Selden | Aug 15, 2010 | Tour News
Beluga whales capture the wild imagination of travelers each summer in Churchill! Steve Selden photo.
The “Bears of Churchill” are not the only marquee draw to this mystical little town on the Hudson Bay in Manitoba, Canada. Once “Spring” -a loosely used term in these parts- arrives, a myriad of other life forms appear as well. As humans go, we tend to find the large animals most interesting and in Churchill’s case, the grande animal draw of the Spring and Summer is the…..drum dance, please….. Boreal Chickadee….uh not quite. Beluga whales take over the reign as the premier attraction and the main reason some travelers endure a 36 hour plus train voyage through the Boreal forest and across the tundra.
The train from Winnipeg has actually been only three hours late these days. A vast improvement from years prior. Unusually it’s been losing time going into Thompson and then gaining up to five hours between Gillam and Churchill. What used to take 13hrs is now down to about eight in that span. Cool weather again could be the determining factor as the track, which sits atop permafrost, tends to warp under the hot sun as the ground warms and shifts somewhat. “Slow orders” are given to the conductors and trains slow their speeds considerably. Omnitrax, a Denver based company that owns the Churchill Grainery and 100 miles of track from Churchill south, known as the Hudson Bay line, has also invested money in upgrading the line.
Summer in Churchill is unique and unmatched by any other place on earth. One can encounter a week of fog and chilly temps (35-50 F) or another week of sparkling blue skies reflecting off the vast Hudson Bay while winning the coveted and unexplainable prize of being the “hotspot” in Manitoba for a number of consecutive days. Usually, we find a mix of both but overall the cool Summer temps are a reprieve to visitors that endure sweltering Summer days of 90F for an extended time. I have guided 12 Summer seasons in Churchill for Natural Habitat Adventures and being “Polar bear”-like myself I have always felt quite comfortable in the mostly cool climate of Churchill. Exploring the Arctic environment of Churchill area in a fleece and winter hat in the middle of July or August has always brought a smile to my face.
Polar bear in Churchill hunkered down in the willows. NHA photo.
This Summer has been no exception. The cooler days and nights have been perfect for observing the wildlife of the North. Beluga whales arrived in the thousands in the early Spring and have been in and out of the Churchill River with the changing tides in large and small groups. Since the Spring rains have been infrequent this year the water level in the Churchill River is way down from its’ normal levels. Last year was the opposite. The water level was high from substantial runoff across the boggy land. When this happens the water appears to be tea- colored after filtering through tundra peat moss reducing visibility. However this year the water is crystal clear and snorkeling with the whales, as well as Kayaking and boat viewing, has provided optimal viewing possibilities. I was lucky enough to have the same conditions years ago when I snorkeled with the Beluga’s and it was surely an incredible life experience. Swimming so close to the ghostly white bodies of the whales in the river was intense. Another upside to the low water level is the annual maintenance of the Weir that crosses the river. About 19 kilometers up from the mouth work can be performed much more easily. The weir is made of huge rocks that contain the water to an extent that it backs up behind it and allows for local recreational fishing and boating to the South. When it was built in 1998 the engineers did not account for the enormous pressure placed upon it by winter pack ice. This stress has caused persistent damage that needs to be repaired every Summer so to keep the integrity of the structure. The levels of water in the river north of the weir were reduced when two-thirds of the Churchill River water was diverted in the late 1970s. This season’s levels have been even lower due to little rainfall. While allowing for excellent water clarity, there are areas just below the weir that are inaccessible to boats because of rock danger. Beluga nursery areas have been, in the past, in this area known as Mosquito Point. This season many nursery areas for moms and calves are a bit farther in toward the mouth of the river.
Another effect of the cooler weather this Summer has been the abundance of Polar bears in and around Churchill. Mike Macri, owner/operator of Sea North Tours reports 10-15 bears out along Eskimo Point just North of Fort Prince of Whales. Travelers have had the amazing experience of viewing Polar bears from the confines of the Fort, a former Hudson Bay Company stronghold for fur trading in the early to the mid 18th century. Polar bear monitors provided by Parcs Canada use ATV’s to patrol the area in order to head off wandering bruins. The irony of Polar Bears meandering and Beluga whales swimming so close to what used to be the biggest fur trading/whaling post in the region is comical. I think the bears might have been able to wrest the fort from the undermanned English led by Samuel Hearne as easily as LaPerouse and the 300 Frenchmen in three ships did back in the day of 1782.
Finally, the thrill of the Summer so far was a brave Churchill River rescue by Sea North Tours zodiac driver and Churchill local Bill Ayotte. When two men borrowed an old Lund skiff to go do some freestyle whale watching, the engine stalled leaving them pinned against the Western River bank rocks. Ayotte approached the men who were in the water at this point and shouted that they had about three minutes to get into his Zodiac or they all would be in big trouble in light of the ripping tidal currents sucking the water out of the river. This year’s tidal currents are magnified due to the low water levels in the river. The men didn’t seem to be responding as at this point they were borderline hypothermic from the 41-degree water. Finally, Ayotte was able to edge the zodiac close enough allowing the men to flop into the craft and head to the dock. Mike and Doreen Macri had been alerted by radio and were ready at the dock with a warm truck and whisked them off to the hospital. The men spent the night and were released to the land the next day. Truly a lucky day for the two…next time book with Sea North and leave the spitting Lund at the dock.
by Steve Selden | Jun 23, 2010 | Tour News
Polar bears are Churchill’s iconic animal though much more happens here. Bill McPherson photo.
Welcome, everyone,to the premier website on Churchill Manitoba and the magnificent creatures, landscape and people for which we all know this magical place. In the months to follow I will paint you a comprehensive picture of this tiny sub-arctic village on the Hudson Bay waters and bring you closer to all the “wildlife” – both human and non-human related- so you come to know the community and also understand the fragile ecosystem. Churchill and the surrounding arctic environment will offer up interesting stories both current and historical. You all will become insiders on the Churchill wildlife happenings as well as knowing all that goes on in the community.
In addition to regular Blog posts, I will include in- depth stories related to the Polar Bears and other wildlife as well as news worthy stories focusing on the infrastructure of Churchill and northern communities as they relate to Churchill. There will also be stories of the people of Churchill, or as they are better known…Churchillians! All of this will either give you reasons to visit or run in a completely different direction to, say, the Caribbean. Either way I’m sure you will find this site entertaining and come back on a regular basis.
Now for the current update on Churchill. We all love Spring right? Well in Churchill people don’t just love Spring, they live for Spring and the ensuing three months or so of beautiful sub-arctic weather with sunshine mixed in here and there. After a quite unusually temperate Polar Bear season last Fall, the bears finally escaped the confines of the land and headed to the ice in late November in the quest for seals. The Winter provided the usual fierce cold which grips the region in a state of icy suspension illuminated by almost nightly surreal displays of Aurora Borealis. The precious days of Spring come none too soon and soon are gone as they fade into the early Autumn snow flurries, cold winds, and once again icy covered landscape. Although the Summer is unpredictable, it’s much less so and surely less harsh than the frigid Winter in the North. When the ice in the Churchill River and Hudson Bay breaks up and begins to melt and migrate North to Nunavut, all is well in Churchill. Spring truly signals new beginnings here.
As for that ice break-up…this year it began just about a month ago in mid-May when the Churchill River with its’ powerful tide- influenced currents began breaking the thick ice that seals the river into large chunks or floes. These floes finally were able to escape the rivers’ confines when the Southern Hudson Bay along Churchill’s coast began to break apart as well on June 6. This is such a beautiful time when the ice separates and moves back and forth between the river and bay as the tide changes. The greens and blues radiate from the white chunks while birds like Jaegers, Arctic Terns and Bonapart’s Gulls fill the air searching for recently spawned Capelin(small minnow-like fish) below in the water while the majestic white and grayish whales known as Beluga’s begin to fill the steel blue river and bay. The arctic seasons seem to flow into each other and the people of Churchill say it’s Summer when the whales arrive…so ok it’s Summer now. The first mother and baby calf were spotted in the river just a few days ago swimming inseparably side by side.. With Summer comes the avalanche of flower blooms that continues in cycles through the season. Alpine Azaleas, Mountain Avens, Buttercups and even some Vetch are blooming now as Summer is taking hold of the tundra.
The bird scene is frenetic this time of year and true birders appear in “flocks” in the Churchill area. These somewhat eccentric avian enthusiasts tend to feed at places like Gypsy’s on crullers. This season has been a good one and all species that are normally seen here at this time are being seen. All, except, as of yet, the elusive and highly sought after Ross’ Gull. The gull is mainly distinguished from other gulls by its’ patented rosy patch on the upper chest area. Only one or two pair are thought to nest in the Churchill region annually. Natural Habitat guide Bonnie Chartier literally wrote the book on Churchill Birding and we are still presently awaiting word from her in Churchill as to the first sighting this year. If the Gull is there this season, she will find it. I’ll keep you updated on that one as well as other unique sightings.
Guide Bonnie and her birding group did find a spectacular happening only a few days ago (June 19) as did virtually the rest of the town of Churchill. Down behind the town complex beyond the inukshuk in the Hudson Bay, the crowd gathered to watch just offshore as a Polar Bear devoured a fresh seal kill on a large ice floe. A sight like this that close is one of the wonders of the Arctic not soon forgotten and the buzz spread through town as fast as the many rumors that naturally hatch in a place the size of Churchill.
The Geese, mainly Canada (not Canadian as they are non residents), hatched in numbers about three weeks ago and according to contact Rhonda Reid in Churchill are about eight inches tall now. The numbers are prolific as usual as the cute, fuzzy goslings scurry from hummock to hummock. Snow Geese numbers are down however and according to one local expert source they may have flown farther North this season as everything is a bit early this year. Another reason for possibly heading to another feeding ground is that their main spot in Churchill out at La Peruse Bay in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area (CWMA) has been decimated over the past decade by overfeeding. The grasses and sedges along this coastal area, once devoured, find it hard to grow back. Not being halophytic , which would allow the plant -life to grow in soil with a high salt content, the grasses cannot regenerate fast enough in time for the yearly migration. When viewed from the air via helicopter, you can see a swath of bareness similar to remnants of a grass fire on the prairies. It’s not always good to eat at the same restaurant all the time.
Another oddity of the early Spring has been more frequent sightings of Black bears in and out of the Boreal forest up on Goose Creek road between the creek and the water pumping station at the end of the road otherwise known by locals as CR30. Black bears have surely increased in appearance this far North in recent years though it still is a thrill when one is spotted. Their habitat boundaries are definately shifting. Barren land Grizzly Bears have also been spotted as well by Canada Parcs personnel out on the land in Wapusk National Parc.
Caribou have also been in abundance in and around Churchill. Local resident Norm Preteau was out at CR30 and 2 caribou walked right by him. Lucky for Norm maybe our Black Bear was not far behind. Four more Caribou were spotted on the shore road just outside of town and two more in an area called Lyons Park in the Boreal Forest close to town. Moose have been sighted in abundance this year and as Local dog -musher of Churchill River Dog Mushing reported, they have been seen in groups of five or more this season which is highly unusual. In a place called Moose Alley up on North River the willows used to be 10 feet tall in and around the water. Kelly was up there this past Winter and he says they are only two to three feet at most. The Moose are loose and hungry. Numerous tracks confirm the identity of the culprits. Suspects have yet to be brought in for questioning. And, if they have, they certainly aren’t talking.
That’s it for now…next post will focus on the results of this past Winter’s Hudson Bay Quest dog-sled race and its’ uncertain future as well as a full update on the burgeoning Beluga whale season as it kicks into high gear. I’ll mix in other interesting anecdotes as well. Our thoughts and prayers are with local Dene Carolyn Bjorklund as she recovers from successful surgery in Winnipeg.
by Steve Selden | Jun 2, 2010 | Tour News
We are officially on the web! Welcome to Churchillpolarbears.org! As Churchill enters the summer months, please feel free to read our blog entries from last year’s polar bear season from October and November 2009. It was an exciting year with many incredible polar bear encounters. I will be returning to Churchill this autumn to once again take part in this magnificent event so to get an idea of what it’s like firsthand, check out the archives.
by Steve Selden | Nov 17, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
Officers immobilized the orphaned 1-year-old cub from the helicopter with a dart. The cub’s chance of survival in the wild is south of zero at that age, so he will be transferred to the polar bear exhibit at the Winnipeg Zoo most likely. Brad Josephs photo.
As snow continues falling intermittently, and temperatures dropping into the teens, helicopter traffic has increased considerably out and back across the Churchill River. And, in the true Churchill way, rumors are also flying across the town. Many of the flights are mistaken for Polar Bear lifts as nets dangle below the machines. However, the nets contain equipment for workers stationed across the river close to Seahorse Gully. Another rumor heard in the restaurants is that the infamous White Whale Lodge is being rebuilt by Dwight Allen, owner of the Polar Inn. Not this year. In actuality, the steel river channel markers are being replaced on the west side of the river. These markers, appearing like lost suburban power-line stanchions, are used by ship captains to align their vessels with the deeper channel cut out of the seabed in the river in order to safely dock alongside the grain port dock. Although the 2009 shipping season is over, work in the north is done when the weather allows. With winter still unable to retain its grip on Churchill work goes on.
Guide Leah and her travelers had another banner day out in the CWMA, spotting eight sets of sows with cubs. More of the same behavior with a plethora of activity all over the land. A juvenile Gyrfalcon – white with black speckled blotches – was seen careening through the updrafts along the coastal road between Gordon point and TB lodge. Very few people have the opportunity for an up-close look at a Gyr and these travelers were thrilled when the animal soared within a hundred feet of the rover. Later, near a lonely inukshuk perched on a rocky Esker out close to the vast tidal flats, a Snowy owl watched as the group approached. Increased building coastal ice was the backdrop as the north winds whipped the snow through the willows and atop the tundra and temperatures fell. Later, back in the vicinity of the Tundra Lodge, sparring was heating up again. One big male with a twisted, scarred nose was grappling with another bear with blood splotches on his back and muzzle. Leah surmised most of the blood, especially on the face, was from a recent seal kill and not inflicted by his opponent in the scrap.
Guides Colby and Bonnie were out at the Tundra Lodge with ample action. Bonnie counted 23 bears all around the lodge from one side to the other. Sparring bears were pounding each other with massive limbs pressing back and forth and occasionally gnawing on a neck or two. Later as the group headed out toward Gordon Point, mothers and cubs anxiously await the Hudson Bay freeze. Meanwhile, the on-land bear population continues to grow and flourish.
Guide Sue and her folks capped off a wildly successful trip by spotting a Marten on the outskirts of Churchill near our dogsled camp. The dark brown animal with tan cheeks and a peach patch on the upper chest skirted the main road and vanished under the old deserted “Navy base” building. This beautiful creature has been seen throughout the season by various groups and added an additional thrill to an already phenomenal wildlife viewing year. Then with seemingly nothing left to top that thrill, the group came upon a mother with two cubs out along Goose Creek Road near the Manitoba Hydro station. Bear patrol was soon on the scene….the beat goes on!
by Steve Selden | Nov 16, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
The Hudson Bay all stirred up in Churchill. Alex De Vries – Magnifico photo.
Waves continue to roll up onto the icy Precambrian shield that forms Churchill’s coast while temperatures have fallen slightly (20F) and intermittent snow seems to be a daily occurrence. When the conditions permit, Polar Bears fly through the sky at a frenzied pace…in nets of course….under helicopters heading North, inland somewhat, to release the “problem” animals away from Churchillians and their seasonal visitors from around the world.
Our dogsled trips outside of Churchill proper, led by mushers Kelly and Robert, looping through the old Dene village, have become picturesque as the rime ice has blanketed spruce and tamarack trees with frosty veils. The dogs are so well conditioned now that their sprints over trails barely produce prolonged pants from their ever eager mouths. Occasionally a Polar Bear cruises into the vicinity only to add to the surreal setting. Not completely sure whether or not you would prefer the bear flushed from the willows and chased away by bear monitors — it would surely be a once in a lifetime experience, but not necessarily a positive one. This type of experience can only be truly appreciated once one is back home on the couch relaxing after a grueling though somewhat mundane day at the office. These dogs were born to run and your “boss” should know that!
On the tundra in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area, the sun rose above the horizon at 8:09 am and slowly began to warm the land and air. Hoar frost enhanced the light as all came alive in its wake. The Tundra Lodge travelers and guides awoke to the aroma of berry pancakes, sizzling bacon and freshly brewed coffee…and bears everywhere as is customary this season. Mothers with COYs (cubs of the year) seemed cautiously amused by the incessant sparring taking place all around them. Guide Bonnie reported five bears under the kitchen huffing and growling so loud that the whole enclosure reverberated like a harmonica. While the group sat down for breakfast, a flock of roughly 85 red polls, both Hoary and common, fluttered in and about the willows near the lodge. A nice touch of color to the tundra. Of course the biggest news from the lodge was that Rocky, the bruiser bear is now gone, perhaps signaling a not so distant end to this epic season. We all have high hopes that there will be as many sequels to this Polar Bear season as there was to the movie bearing our lovable bear’s moniker.
Guide Paul with his group was out at Bird Cove admiring the “best” Arctic fox of the season as well as a bevy of rock ptarmigan in…yup…the shelter of the rocks. This Arctic ecology really isn’t that complicated, folks. Later as their rover brought them in close proximity to the lodge out on the spit bay-side of the structure, “a parade of bears” was the best quote describing the scene. Mothers and cubs out on the land-fast ice. Big males sauntering around throwing uneasy gazes at each other and sparring when a gaze was met with an even more uneasy gaze ruled the day. A mother with a coy, a 900lb male with an ear partially removed, and about 10 bears under or just around the lodge made for additional glorious bear viewing. Bears galore.
Guide Sue and her crew of travelers had a special guest, Darcy Callaghan, on their rover for the day. Darcy from the Churchill operations office was out for a day of respite from a long thrilling season. Darcy works tirelessly (he wears shoes) helping to keep the well oiled logistics machine in Churchill going on a daily basis. He’s a longtime Nat Hab employee as well as a pioneer in the noble cause against the Harp Seal hunt in Eastern Canada. His affiliation with and dedication to International Fund for Animal Welfare is ongoing to this day even as the spotlight has shifted to other areas and causes. A unique visionary from Prince Edward Island.
While out near Gordon Point, Sue and her group spotted three bears coming back toward the land from the spit jutting out into the Hudson Bay. The group spent an hour or more as the bears came closer to the rover and continued across the tundra. Still not enough ice to keep them interested or occupied. Some mothers and cubs were seen a short time later along the coast road and then an elegant Cross fox near the back of the rover. A bear sleeping in the kelp bed nearby lunged up and ambled after the fox for a change of pace. An unsuccessful attempt brought him back to his kelp and dreams of another chase….this time of a tasty seal on ice.
Travelers in Guide Karen’s care saw a stark white Arctic fox on the coast road just past Gordon Point. Some sparring in that area by a couple of big brawny males also made for a good wildlife viewing morning. An unusual sight came just after lunch when the group watched as a bear was able to get its paws up on the railing of a rover chartered by Churchill Nature Tours and its guide Steve, a longtime fixture to the bear season in Churchill. Luckily nobody was taken by surprise and the bear moved away as the driver revved the engine lurching forward. All in all the memories of the day were highlighted by the soft sunlight on the Hudson Bay flowing in and fusing with the ice along the shore. More and more bears were noticed lying in wait out on this ice anxiously awaiting the onset of “their own” seal-hunting season.
