The bird, named after the famed Arctic explorer James Clark Ross, has a signature black – necklaced stripe around its’ neck and would randomly appear out of the mist on the Churchill River along the flats to the east of the grain port. This was a nesting ground confirmed by researchers since around 1980. In fact I cannot remember ever seeing the prized bird anywhere else in Churchill. Northern Siberia still exists as the gull’s predominant breeding grounds with seasonal homesteading along the Arctic Ocean’s ice pack.
Ross’s gull along the gravelly shore. Brian Small photo.
Bonnie Chartier is world renowned for being an expert on the birds of the Churchill region and has a published guidebook (out of print at present) called A Birders Guide to Churchill. We would bring the entire group down to the Churchill River banks by the port and have all looking through binoculars, scanning the water and gravelly flats for smaller gulls with that distinct black stripe around the neck. Another distinguishing mark we always looked for was a rosy – washed colored underbelly.
Ross’s gull in flight. Bruce Mactavish photo.
A funny occurrence at the outset of a trip happened just along the stretch of road near the port and flats. Our group of 10 or so was searching the shallows and distant Churchill River for the gull when a independent couple just next to us had a set up a tripod with a spotting scope. They had in their possession a copy of Bonnie’s book and were in dire need of finding this prized bird for their “lifelist”. They began asking Bonnie if she knew anything about the bird and it’s whereabouts in Churchill when she subtly revealed whom she was and that the book they had was written by her. Needless to say we all had a good laugh and although no Ross’ gulls were spotted that day, the couple left with a signed copy and we all departed with a funny memory and story.
These two images by Katie de Meulles in Churchill just this past week are really great shots of a pine grosbeak perched on a spruce in the boreal forest. The red, green and blue all make for a vibrant color scheme. The flight shot gives a sense of motion that is caught without much fuzziness in the image. Churchill has incredible bird-life as spring transcends to summer.
red poll perched on a spruce in the boreal forest. Katie de Meulles photo.
Red poll takes flight from a spruce in Churchill. Katie de Meulles photo.
Dene Village in Churchill is a forlorn place for the most part. There is a stone monument just off Goose Creek Road as you pull off into the vacant, silent,raised subdivision commemorating the 150 Dene people that died following their forced relocation by the government from the north country.
Back then was the beginning of the end for the Dene. They were living off the land as native people did when the Canadian government decided they were in need of “civilization”. Unfortunately “civilization” was not what the Dene needed nor wanted at the time and their endless shuffling from place to place around Churchill began.
The Dene relocation story will be explored in subsequent posts as this post is about what we discovered in the patch of forest adjacent to the village back in the days of guiding Churchill Arctic summer trips.
Round leaved orchid. Courtesy wikidmedia.org.
I don’t know how we came upon the majestic trove of incredible orchids hidden in the boreal forest just behind some of the burned or raised cottage foundations in the village but we did. With all the buildings gone as you meander through the sub-division, one goes from an erie feeling of trespassing on sacred ground to an amazing short walk through the forest with about five or six different stops to examine and photograph various orchids found in Churchill.
Hodded Lady’s – Tresses. Shelly Weedmark photo.
The orchids we found and returned time after time with groups to see in this sacred place were Hooded Lady’s – Tresses, Small Northern Bog Orchid, Round – leaved Orchid, Northern Lady’s – Slipper, Green Flowered Bog Orchid and Early Coralroot. When we would walk quietly through the soft grounded undercover of this particular spot I remember telling the people I felt like these beautiful orchids were the souls of the Dene people that had suffered and died in Churchill. That they were back in another form and that new reincarnated form was brought forth in these incredible flowers. That the pain the people had gone through was now somehow released and become beauty in the world.
I still think of these walks we took and I feel lucky to have had these experiences. The feelings from the powerful orchids….souls of the world are still with me today.
This is a video I’ve posted before but I thought with Churchill’s Arctic summer on the horizon I’d send it your way again. This should get everyone traveling to Churchill this summer excited for the amazing and curious belugas!
Lets not forget all the other natural wonders the summer season has to offer. Birds, bears, tundra wildflowers and the phenomenal geology of the region. Summer in Churchill truly is the most diverse season for taking in a comprehensive feel for the sub-Arctic region.
Enjoy this underwater look at snorkeling with thousands of beluga whales!
Having spent over ten years of guiding Churchill Arctic summer trips, I have many fond memories of the time spent there and frequently remember stories from those days out on the tundra of the Churchill region and water of the Hudson Bay. Many of the incredible events were not captured by camera though some were and are really just a bookmark of a greater story. Here are a few photos I did mange to get and I hope you enjoy them!
A beluga whale popping out from the Churchill River near the mouth where visibility is amazing. Steve Selden photo.
Grain vessel awaits docking at the Port of Churchill. Photo Steve Selden
Tundra swans on shallow lake. Ed Bouvier photo.
Sea North 2 on the Churchill River looking for belugas. Photo Rhonda Reid.
Polar bear in Button Bay. Steve Selden photo.
Fossil hunt on the beach in Churchill, MB. Steve Selden photo.
Wildflowers on the tundra in Churchill. Steve Selden photo.
Pisew Falls near Thompson, Manitoba. Steve Selden photo.
