A fast start to polar bear season 2014 has excited Natural Habitat guides and travelers sighting polar bears and other Arctic wildlife all over the tundra of the Churchill Wildlife Management Area (CWMA).
Polar bear resting in the rocks.
Not to be outdone, although yearly, they clearly are, elevated numbers of ptarmigan scurried across the tundra…slipping in and out of the cover of willow stands. Guide Elise and group enjoyed the wide expanse of the land dotted by the flightless birds and then headed over to the Tundra Lodge where sparring bears gained widespread approval of wide-eyed onlookers aboard the polar rover.
Another male polar bear on approach and one lounging out on the point beyond the lodge nibbling on grass were some bonus sightings for the early season group.
Overall it was an “incredibly diverse day of sun, snow and varying temperatures” according to Elise.
Two polar bears spar in front of a pond, Brad Josephs photo,
A lurking bear close to the school today might have been the same bear to inspire cracker shots from Manitoba Conservation officers last night.
Natural Habitat guide Karen Walker finished up the polar bear season with an enthusiastic and somewhat “seasoned” group. An initial day of dog sledding with Churchill River mushing and Kelly Turcotte provided one of those Arctic experiences that will last in memory forever. Gliding through the packed snow amongst covered spruce trees gave 89 yr old traveler Tina Vilhauer a thrill of a lifetime. She was able to share the experience with her granddaughter who also had a big smile.
Running sled dog. Brad Josephs photo.
After lunch the group was off via helicopter to scout out polar bear dens out near Wapusk National Park. Once located, the abandoned dens were another incredible, once in a lifetime event for most of the group. Tina and Muriel Slavens, a 75 year-old traveler were not able to forge across the snow to crawl through a den so the helicopter pilot hovered just above the entrance on the way back so they could get a closer look inside…a wonderful gesture for the women to cherish. Some of the other guests had crawled into the polar bear den and were able to describe the feel and earthly smell of the hollowed out tundra.
Moose moving along the tundra. Brad Josephs photo.
As the group flew across Wapusk National Parc, along the Churchill River they searched the land for moose… spotting quite a few, including a sow and calf and four large bull moose in a group together.As they headed up the coast searching for polar bears all aboard noticed that the ice had really packed into the Hudson Bay the last few days, so it was difficult to spot the bears.There were no bears at Cape Churchill yet…traditionally the last stepping -off point of the season for polar bears heading out onto the ice to hunt seals. Finally heading west, they spotted several bears, including a sow with cubs. Bears waiting by leads of water in the ice for seals and one blood stained patch of ice with indented paw prints around signaled the scene of an earlier seal kill.Returning to town the choppers flew into the sunset, with a hazy, foggy orange sky ahead and a sun dog rainbow off to the side. The final leg took the group over the Ithaca ship wreck encased in the ice in Bird Cove heading back into Churchill at last light.Back in town after a hot dinner the group enjoyed an inspiring talk by local Metis elder Myrtle Demeulles.
Snow covered Fort Prince of Wales. Karen Walker photo.
The first morning out on a rover produced very little wildlife activity until the group reached a point out east. There a healthy polar bear lumbered along the coast, very close to the rover. Several more bears were spotted out on the ice and then a few minutes of sparring at the tundra lodge. A bear nearby the lodge was licking at its paws for quite awhile. Four other sleeping bears were in view and the tranquility of the animals mixed with the majestic landscape was satisfying to all travelers aboard. The group caught a great view of an arctic fox along the coast …following it with the rover for several minutes.
Arctic fox combing the tundra. Brad Josephs photo.
The following day was stormy so polar bears were either hunkered down in the willows or facing the challenges of being out on the sea ice of the Hudson Bay in search of seals. A bear was spotted along the ice edge at the coast walking slowly . “We did get to see an arctic fox as we left town in the morning, an arctic hare in the willows in Ptarmigan Alley and some ptarmigan popping up and down along a snow berm near the lodge lake.So we ended up seeing all 4 arctic animals that day which is pretty unusual., reported Karen.
Polar bear walking along a frozen thermokarst. Brad Josephs photo.
“Our last morning was beautiful, so we drove around as far as we could without getting stuck in the snow drifts.We couldn’t get all the way to Cape Merry, but we got beyond Jockville and could see Fort Prince of Wales across the frozen Churchill River.We saw lots of fresh bear and fox tracks, but none were in sight.”, stated Karen. A magnificent morning around the Churchill area.
Calm Air charter ready to fly to Winnipeg. Karen Walker photo.
Just before the groups flight to Winnipeg, they got to see a bear lift of a sow and her two cubs.The cubs rode in the cab of the helicopter with seat belts fastened to hold them secure while mom was slung underneath in the cargo net.The guests really enjoyed that grand finale.
News from the Tundra Lodge came early with a “house bear” as Natural Habitat guide Leah McGowan dubbed him. The lone polar bear set up shop immediately and slept the first week away with periodic displays of energy spurred on possibly from wafting gourmet scents from the kitchen car. He was promptly named ‘Frances’ after a guests daughters cuddly childhood polar bear, of the same name.
Arctic fox inquisitive of travelers. Colby Brokvist photo.
The bear is a mature male with several scars on his nose and another scar above his right eye. He is lean, though not skinny. He seems like an ‘old soul’ wise and patient…. looking up at you with knowing eyes.
By night three for the inaugural lodge group, four, maybe five bears in addition to Frances had wandered into the area. All seemed to be getting along just fine after a few “discussions” on personal space.
Photo: Colby Brokvist
The tundra still sporting browns and reds awaits the snow soon to come from the north.
Guide Colby Brokvist reporting from Winnipeg after a “wonderful” early season trip gave rave reviews of all facets of his groups’ adventure. A tri -fecta of foxes graced the travelers presence with red, Arctic and even a rare silver sighting. Out at the lodge there have been at least two a night on a steady basis.
Silver fox scouring tundra for lemmings. Colby Brokvist photo
Truly the highlight of this past week’s wildlife log was a pair of beluga whales just off the rocky coast of Cape Merry. Amazing to spot these babies this late in the season. Imagine being able to combine summer trips with polar bear season? You could get it all at once. Give global warming some time it might happen.
Gordon Point provided some fine entertainment one day with a ringed seal swimming teasingly at a risky distance from white furred bears. Where else on the planet can you find that kind of drama?
Bird-wise…a list of 23 deep included harlequin ducks and a gyrfalcon….both rare for early season trips. So far an off year for snowy owls..still time though. The air has transitioned to the next level of cold which shall digress another 10 notches before the Hudson Bay Quest arrives in March. Cold enough though for most shallow thermakarst ponds to have a healthy icy veil on their surface….not quite strong enough to support an 800 pound animal.
The “port report” …still oil free..has two ships in port and two anchored out at five -fathom hole in the Hudson Bay. Workers are banking overtime hours trying to beat mother nature before she freezes over the Hudson Straits in the far northeast corner of the bay, sealing off the escape route for outgoing vessels. A long winter awaits.
This coming polar bear season we will be featuring fresh footage from the Churchill Wildlife management Area through Natural Habitat Adventures. Come to Churchill and see some of these same bears in the Mangelson video now two years old. Watch for video from the tundra lodge and other places out on the land rimming the Hudson Bay coastline….should be an amazing season with healthy polar bears already showing up in the region!
With the snow on the ground and some early ice pans in the Hudson bay, the polar bear action in the Churchill Wildlife management Area is heating up. The past week has seen some of the best wildlife activity “in the past five years” according to Natural Habitat guide Sandra Elvin. Showing her group of avid travelers around the CWMA proved to unveil an amazing array of happenings that awed even the veteran wildlife naturalist.
Polar bears sparring in the willows. Colby Brokvist photo.
Right from the go Sandra and group were out around the tundra lodge and settled in for an incredible morning of about 15 bears sparring in every different direction. Polar bears spar in order to build up muscles and defense mechanisms for future encounters out on the Hudson Bay ice when the seal hunting season is in full swing. It’s also believed that sparring figures into mating behavior. All in all the practice is really phenomenal when you think about it. These massive animals undertake mock fighting bouts when they are under the stress of hunger and very little stored energy. They do this and most of the time come out unscathed…really cool under the circumstances.
Another couple of bears were under the back grated observation deck sniffing guests’ boots with hot breath steaming in the cold Arctic air. Shortly later, a bear off the front and one off the back of the rover kept the day rolling and the shutters clicking continuously. A red fox came along just for some variation.
A red fox gazes cautiously as a rover appears. Brad Josephs photo.
Later that afternoon a sow with two cubs were crossing a large, frozen pond in perfect, soft afternoon light just past the first creek area…what a way to finish off the day.
The next day brought on another incredible experience out on the land. Sandra focused the scope in on a ringed seal basking out on some chunk shore- ice just off to the west of Gordon Point near the polar bear resting point…not a good idea. Closer still to the spit land of the resting point was another seal…this one was in the process of becoming a polar bear’s dinner…quite the find…for both. After getting his fill, the polar bear decided to get in the bay for a swim. At the same time the seal that still had a pulse also went in the order. Quite a thrilling scene to watch through a scope. This seal better start making better decisions.
Other highlights of the day was a bear gnawing at the rover’s heating mechanism under the machine…a little jerk of the engine put an end to that. On the way back…with the heat fortunately still pumping…a snowy owl flew right in front of the rover, across a pond landing a short distance away on a hill. Another red fox strode by with an eye always on the rover. A couple of friendly polar bears at Halfway Point put the golden touch on another fine day in the Arctic.
The ride back to town from launch was a little interesting as just by the side of the road before the A-frame a polar bear was taking out some aggression on an old snowmobile. The polar bear won this sparring match!
A polar bear takes a disliking to a snowmobile. Sandra Elvin photo.
A polar bear gets serious about demoing a snowmobile. Sandra Elvin photo.
A visit up to cape Merry where the Hudson Bay flows into the Churchill River presented a rare first -hand viewing of a polar bear being “hazed” with cracker shells and pushed into the river so to displace him to the other side near the Fort prince of Wales. There has been more of this going on this season..so maybe the scene was not that rare…as Conservation seems to be trapping less bears and relying more on this hazing process. Very few traps have been noticed around town..even though a few have just been set recently. Maybe the budget for capturing bears is down but some rumors regarding not enough handling experience with regard to the polar bears by newbie conservation officers has yet to be confirmed. regardless, a more “cowboy” type approach of warding bears away from town has prevailed this year.
Another weird event took place a day later as a huge bear ..possibly pregnant female..was airlifted from the holding facility. Unlike most of the flight paths for relocation however, this bear was taken in a more easterly direction..possibly toward Wapusk National Parc. this would surely be a more apt spot for a pregnant sow. hard to get straight answers but I will try to confirm. Because the group had to rush out of Gypsy’s to catch the evacuation, a birthday cake for an unsuspecting guest was smuggled aboard the bus and the guest was thoroughly surprised. A bear lift was a once- in -lifetime gift from above!
A polar bear is lifted away from the holding compound in Churchill. Steve Selden photo.
The final night rover evening was a relaxing way to finish the trip. Near the Natural Habitat tundra lodge again, some sparring bears and another under the deck as well as one polar bear in the front of the machine gave all an excellent evening of bear watching while sipping on some wine or drink. Two more snowy owls..one after turning the corner from launch, and another in the spruce trees across the trail made a full house…get it.. three bears and two snowy owls…yeah..
A group of bears gathers to spar. Sandra Elvin photo.
As the rover rumbled quietly back through fresh blankets of soundless snow, the group reflected on a truly amazing adventure.
