Report from Churchill: October 15, 2010

With a front approaching from the north, overcast skies were the norm with moderate temperatures. The first dusting of snow vanished as fast as it came though reinforcements are surely mounting in the northern arctic.

Guide Eric and his crew of travelers had a good evening on the tundra in the CWMA..though prior to their excursion they had a memorable experience at the inukshuk by the bay behind the town complex. While stopping to take in the vastness of the  Hudson Bay, a frantic flurry of snow buntings swarmed down over their heads, landing on the rocks and beach. Immediately following the flock, a gyrfalcon soared overhead perhaps seeking a meal or two or three…buntings are the arctic version of buffalo wings at a sports bar down South. Just to add a final touch to the scene, a ringed seal peered curiously from the placid bay just offshore.

Later out around the tundra lodge, the group sipped wine with dinner as they watched a polar bear in the willows as an arctic fox meandered by in search of a meal for itself. The distant window lights from the lodge gave it the appearance of a train stopped at a station with no destination ahead. While daylight prevailed, bird-life in the form of large numbers of snow geese and Canada geese were viewed out closer by the bay.

Aside from some polar bears lounging around the tundra lodge, there have been unusual numbers of arctic hares flopping about. Arctic fox sightings have escalated notably in comparison with the past few seasons as well. One of those arctic foxes gave guides Bonnie and Colby and their group on the lodge a unique encounter to watch and photograph.  The white fox continuously stalked and darted at a hare and at one point said hare stood on two legs to keep a watchful gaze at the fox.  Unsuccessful and frustrated in the hunt the fox backed down and moved on.

Eskimo Museum, Churchill, MB

Churchill’s Eskimo Museum is a must-see attraction in town. NHA photo.

The lodge folks also witnessed another similar pursuit out on the tundra. A peregrine falcon was attempting to savor a snow bunting meal just like our gyfalconr by dive bombing and scattering the buntings in every direction.

The Eskimo Museum in Churchill has acquired another unique carving from the north..this one from Repulse Bay. The acquisition can be found in the Inuit game display area and depicts a woman playing a string game with her fingers. The museum features one of the largest and most pertinent collections of Inuit carvings in the North. These treasured art pieces have been collected over decades by traveling priests and museum collectors. Truly a hidden gem in this tiny coastal town on the Hudson Bay.

Report from Churchill: October 14, 2010

A glimpse of Winter unveiled itself in Churchill today. Sideways blowing snow squalls sailed through Churchill in the morning and gave way to an overcast sky and cool air. The Hudson Bay, not to be outdone, reared up from its’ shallows and hammered foamy breakers against the rocks polished long before Franklin’s time. Still missing.

Guide Elise had her travelers out at Halfway Point in time to observe a majestic male polar bear sleeping amid the rocks leeward to the wind.  Northern gusts ripped at the rover and the surrounding tundra. After a good while, as the group observed the animal from about 60 meters away, he suddenly rose and slowly moved to the top of the embedded rocky ledge and gazed out over the Hudson Bay. This moment was by far worth all the effort of searching the CWMA …..truly a majestic sight.

Meanwhile, guide Sandra and travelers observed bears between Gordon Point and farther up the coast road along Ptarmigan Alley. While out in that vicinity the group had the thrill of a male polar bear walking right past the rover, lingering for a while, then moving to a spot out of the wind where he reclined and used a rock as a pillow. All that goose down around and you can’t even use it…ouch.

polar bears churchill, Manitoba

Polar bears emerging from the willows. Melissa Scott photo.

Countless willow ptarmigan, snow buntings, and ravens dotted the tundra between launch and the lodge on both legs of the journey.

Guide Melissa’s group explored the area around Churchill in the day and then headed out for an evening rover excursion. The day provided prime viewing of a sow and two cubs out in a clearing near the recycle center (L5). Another solitary Male polar bear was sighted in the willows shortly after near Akudlik Marsh area not far from the family group. On the other side of town in the small ponds in front of the grain elevator, Melissa reported huge numbers of Canada (remember, they are not residents) geese, gadwalls and mallards positioning to fly south. With the location of the grain being loaded into the ships just on the other side of the elevator, I’m sure the temptation to stow -away in a vessel’s hold has crossed every one of those suspicious -looking birds minds. The last time I was in Burma I swear I saw a couple of obese mallards walking down the street.

Speaking of ships, there is currently a ship with a Finnish flag loading at the dock with three others moored offshore in the bay. Word is that seven more are left to fill their holds this season….while the bay stays clear of ice. More shipping news to come.

The first polar bear lift of the season saw a mother and cub netted up and flown North to safe haven. Today a sow with her two cubs took their spot in the “Polar Bear Holding Facility” as the spiffy new blue sign reads. In fact many improvements have been made to the quansett hut compound; namely both ends having been refaced with shiny new corrugated metal sheeting….arctic chic! All the wheeled culvert bear-traps have been upgraded with silver paint for the culverts and  dark, rich red for the metal frameworks….hey those pesky bears gotta look good when they go in the big house.

Report from Churchill: October 13, 2010

polar bears in Churchill, Manitoba

Polar bears interacting in the CWMA. Steve Morello photo.

Another sunny day in the North with cooler temperatures that will hopefully provide motivation for the polar bears to increase their activity. Any day out on the land can provide countless behavioral circumstances and the unpredictability of the early season can be just as exciting as days when bears are sighted in every direction. These days are the Arctic version of the African safari.

After chasing a phenomenal sunrise out East to launch, guide Elise and her band of travelers quickly came upon a bear sleeping in the willows and camped there for a morning snack aboard the rover. This bear joined them at times munching on a willow branch or two. Willows contain low levels of aspartame and some researchers have speculated the bears enjoy the willows for the slightly sweet taste as well as a bit of energy boost from the sugar like compound. Willows were considered sacred to the Irish and Druid high priests, priestesses and artisans and they would frequently sit among them to gain eloquence and inspiration. Watching a polar bear lounge among them exudes a sense of this ancient connection to spirituality.

Later, out around the tundra lodge, a couple of male polar bears roamed and rested nearby. Ptarmigan in mid-molt, sensing snow on the horizon, seems to be willing their feathers to turn white. The usual snow buntings were omnipresent all around the tundra as well. Shutters clicked and many in Elise’s group carried smaller versions of the “Hubble telescope” for cameras. A memorable day on the tundra for all…except the sleeping bears that is!

Guide Melissa and her travelers moved all about the tundra and spotted five or six bears..mostly lounging. One bear bounded around and seemed quite in a hurry to get someplace. As it turned out, a more secluded spot for an afternoon nap was the goal and the group watched intently. Not sure which is more enjoyable; watching a polar bear or a baby sleep?

Guide Sandra’s group ventured out on their night-rover trip and were fortunate with beautiful multi-colored skies and a magnificent arctic hare out by the lodge. Later on an arctic fox, the first reported sighting by groups of the year chanced to venture right up to the rover much to the awe of all on board. Unique photos were captured by elated travelers.

Local Churchillians are abuzz regarding the pending mayoral election on October 27. Incumbent Mike Spence has once again decided to run as challengers Rose Preteau and Brian Ladoon vie for support. Rumor has it that national television networks have pledged huge campaign funds to Mr. Ladoon with hopes that a victory would spurn the next great reality tv blockbuster. I would explain but I honestly would not even know where to start. Ask around if you make it to Churchill.

Report from Churchill: October 12, 2010

polar bears in Churchill

Polar bear viewing from Great White Bear’s polar rovers. Jeff Klofft photo.

Under blue skies and perfect Autumn weather, wildlife enthusiasts were out and about in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area(CWMA) on polar rovers. The season has transitioned well from Summer to Fall with crisp cool temperatures and sunny skies enveloping the vibrant colors of the plant life of the tundra. Travelers were presented with a fine day of cruising around the land taking in the vast openness.

Guide Melissa’s group followed the inland trail to the tundra lodge and soon spotted a male polar bear out across from a nearby lake. The group was content with settling in and watching for a good part of the morning. Another bear was also sleeping nearby closer to the lodge as the group moved through and out along the coast road.  Numerous snow geese, both white and blue phase grouped themselves all over the area while ptarmigan were scattered closer to the willows. Another male polar bear was seen farther out on the coastal road lumbering around in and out of the willows.

Guide Sandra’s folks meanwhile were taking in many of the same sights of the day and early afternoon brought a memorable experience for all. A group of caribou seemed to appear out of the land as they seem to often do out in the CWMA. One normally has to have a super keen eye to locate caribou on the tundra as they blend quite nicely. This group came relatively close though and camera shutters went wild. Taking it all in stride the herd lingered a long time for the photo shoot and then vanished back to the land.

Inaugural helicopter journeys by some in Guide Elise’s contingent brought them out to Cape Churchill and out over Wapusk National Park where good numbers of polar bears were all over the land. Many of the bears are still farther North and soon will be making their way into the range of the CWMA.

Nightfall in Churchill brought another first of this very young season as the Aurora Borealis glimmered faintly but visible in the clear, cool sky. This is a good sign for the season ….hopefully more of these displays to follow in the days ahead.

Report from Churchill: October 11, 2010

And a happy Canadian Thanksgiving to all! With the Holiday upon us, all of Churchill was relatively quiet throughout the day. Churchillians take their holidays seriously…. especially when the main focus is food and family.  Breezy winds circulated over the Tundra and Hudson bay with blue skies overhead. Waves lapped gently at the Precambrian shield that surrounds Churchill on its’ coast and encases the town itself like a timeless fossil.

Few bears were reported sighted in the area. At this time, four remain detained in the Quansett hut compound near the airport. Natural Habitat’s first two groups of travelers arrived via chartered Nolinor Aviation from Winnipeg. Guides Melissa and Sandra kicked off the new season with an excursion down Goose Creek Road to the Churchill River weir area. They reported high water levels in the River and Goose Creek watershed contrary to the Summer levels. Heavy rains recently in the South have contributed to the influx. No Belugas left, however, to bask in the higher levels…all headed back to their Northern home waters.

While out on the coastal road the eager contingents took in their fill of flocks of reliable Snow Buntings fluttering around the muskeg. Then the first major sighting of the season occurred overhead. A sentinel Bald eagle soared the updrafts just above the groups as they meandered along the dirt road that traces the coastline of the Hudson Bay. All aboard were thrilled with the Arctic welcoming.

Dogsledding in Churchill. Joseph Lin photo.

Dogsledding in Churchill. Joseph Lin photo.

The afternoon also provided time for the travelers to embark on a dog-sledding tour through the willows and hummocks just outside town under the calm guidance of Kelly Turcotte and Robert McDonald with Churchill River Mushing. Although the snow has not come yet, the custom wheeled dog “sleds” cruised smoothly along the trail as the huskies panted and yipped with joy. A surprisingly enjoyable ride for all.

In the days to come, Polar bears will take center stage. For now just the panorama of the tundra in its’ lingering Fall colors of red, yellow and ambers and the majestic avian creatures in the sky furnish all the travelers’ needs.

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