It’s been a couple of weeks now since I returned home to Colorado from a trip South to Albuquerque New Mexico with Dene elder Caroline Bjorklund from Churchill, MB. The trip was inspiring to me and a lifelong dream fulfilled for Caroline.
Native dancer at the Gathering of Nations. Steve Selden photo.
Gathering of Nations pow wow. Steve Selden photo.
The highlight and focal point of the journey was the Gathering of Nations powwow held at the Pit on the University of New Mexico campus. The largest first nations gathering in the world featured an incredible mixture of native dancers, drummers and singers occupying the floor for two full days of magical transcendence. Even the wry humor of the master of ceremonies added to the unique event…heyyy.
Another amazing moment of the trip for both Caroline and myself was meeting three of the original Navajo Code- Talkers. These men recruited during WWII to provide secret dialogue disguised by intermixed Navajo words to confuse the enemy-mainly the Japanese in the Pacific theater-are heroes that in essence saved the United States from defeat. They are held in total high esteem..although very few people know much about them. The movie, “Wind Talkers”, was maid to portray their effort but fell short of the real story.
Caroline and the code – talkers. Steve Selden photo.
Caroline was amazed to find that many of the Navajo words were quite similar to her native Dene language. I guess “amazed” should better be described as relieved as she has always believed that a link between the two separate tribes has existed. This was the first indication that the theory could be quite true. And to discover this from men whose job and mission stemmed from the use of those and other actual Navajo words was pretty thought-provoking.
Navajo code-talkers. Steve Selden photo.
Young native dancer looking on. Steve Selden photo.
So, from the dancers, drummers and singers to the Navajo code -talkers then on to the native historical museums and Navajo reservation out West at Window Rock, Caroline sewed together some semblance of fabric encompassing some long “uprooted” roots. People she and I spoke with seemed vague in their thoughts regarding a link between the two native groups though a constant feeling of one nation prevailed. The most poignant statement or concept on the whole thing came from one of the curator’s at the Navajo native museum out near Window Rock when he told Caroline that his people “came from Mother Earth”. In that sense the truth is we are all related.
Churchill Dene elder Caroline Bjorklund realized a life-long dream and quest last week traveling south all the way to New Mexico seeking her roots and native connections with the Navajo nation.
Caroline had heard, and read from numerous sources, that her Dene tribe from Northern Canada was long ago part of what is known today as the Navajo nation in the United States. For as long as I have known Caroline she has dreamed about reconnecting with the lost brothers and sisters she has never known other than in her heart. This trip was a chance to see if a connection was there.
Caroline with a Navajo dancer. Steve Selden photo.
The focus of the journey, in which I had the pleasure of joining Caroline, was the Gathering of Nations held at the Pit on the University of New Mexico college campus. The beautiful sunken basketball arena served as an awesome venue for hundreds of tribal representative dancers, drummers, singers and crafts artisans. The gathering is the largest “pow wow” in North America taking place over a two day period. Two long exhilarating days. Having never been to a “pow wow”, this was far from what my mind had conjured up as the setting though I soon realized once the drumming and dancing started, the setting really made no difference.
Gathering of Nations grand entry. Steve Selden photo.
I used to follow the Grateful Dead back in the 80’s and the feel and vibe of the entire scene, not just the performance is what kept me coming back to the shows. This, as I realized by the second day of the gathering, was a feel quite similar to those experiences….minus any drugs or alcohol. That reliance on drugs for many “deadheads” is what, in the end, caused my interest to wane. As much as the drug “feel” was apparent at dead shows, the sober innocence “feel” was also quite noticeable at the pow wow. The energy inside the arena and friendship vibe outside around the food court and arts tent were refreshing. It’s funny how well people treat others when not under the influence of any drugs. Sincerity shines through.
Native dancer awaiting his call to the floor. Steve Selden photo.
The dancers from every possible native group wore their feathered “regalia”, not “costumes” as I overheard one dancer correct a woman from Texas. The colors were as vibrant as the energy rising from the floor in the middle of 18,000 or so people in the arena. Young as well as older dancers were judged by a panel floor-side with prizes awarded to the best in the competition. However, even though it was a competition..technically.. the feel of the whole thing never gave way to a competitiveness. It was as if the all were dancing and drumming to, at once, celebrate their past roots as well as fend off any demons that still exist.
Young dancers at the Gathering of Nations. Steve Selden photo.
Meeting and engaging in conversation with people allowed Caroline to feel part of a bigger native family here in the United States. In Canada, near Churchill, only a few native tribes exist..in the states, as we all know, there are numerous groups. A little overwhelming for a Dene woman living in a town of just 800 or so inhabitants..not all of which are even native. The gathering opened eyes and minds..both Caroline’s and mine..of the beauty of all peoples coming together as one…a dream truly imagined and found for these two days at least. More of this dream trip in the next post..stay tuned.
Dancers and crowd dancing together. Steve Selden photo.
The bond that exists between Churchill and Winnipeg, Manitoba is ageless. Churchill lies roughly 500 miles North of Winnipeg as the crow flies and is only accessible by airplane, train or dogsled….ruff! Yet, the link between the two towns is one of necessity as well as one which transcends bloodlines over many generations.
For thousands of years aboriginal tribes gathered in Winnipeg at the confluence of the Red and Assiniboine rivers ; a place now known as the Forks. The tribes would come together to exchange goods,mostly furs, stories and old fashioned companionship..some not always of the friendly variety. No email, no texting, no cell phones…actual human interaction…something sorely lacking in my opinion in today’s world. Stories and encounters…later on with Europeans, passed on at these gatherings live on today through multiple generations of Manitobans both native and of European descent.
Winnipeg is still a place today where a wide range of ethnicity abounds. Still a gathering place of sorts.
As “Spring” approaches in the North, most, if not all polar bears are enjoying a fine seal-hunting season on the frozen Hudson Bay. As we know, the vast majority of bears left for the ice around the end of November when the Hudson Bay froze sufficiently to allow the massive bruins to begin their annual quest for seal meals.
Charlie Lundie from Churchill has won the 2011 Hudson Bay Quest…the first time a musher from this town has done so. Lundie crossed the finish line in Churchill at 6:06 pm, March 19th with a time of 30 hours and six minutes..just two minutes ahead of second place finisher Peter McClelland of Ely, Minnesota. This year’s race originated in Gillam, Manitoba for the first time in the race’s history.
When one familiar with the world of sled-dog racing hears or sees the word “quest”, one instantly thinks “Yukon Quest”..one of the most challenging, well-known races in the world. However there is another “quest”,… a bit smaller, but never-the-less quite formidable that takes place every March placing the small coastal village of Churchill, Manitoba in the spotlight around mushing circles.
The Hudson Bay Quest began in 2004 and continued until this year with an alternating route between Churchill and Arviat, Nunavut along the coastal barren lands connecting the two. Wildly unpredictable weather made this 200 mile journey comparable to even greater challenges such as stretches of the Iditarod and aforementioned Yukon Quest…the perennial harbingers of sled-dog races. In fact the Hudson Bay Quest has now been recognized as a qualifier for both races.
The race committee decided to reroute the race this year due to safety and logistical obstacles caused by the arctic weather hazards encountered out along the sea ice of Hudson Bay. Instead of alternating years between Churchill and Arviat in Nunavut territory to the North, the race will now run from Gillam ,in the south,to Churchill each year. The route intersects with the Hudson Bay rail -line at the midway point making provision drops and race logistics less strenuous. In recent races on the old route, mushers have been lead off-trail in blinding whiteouts and snowstorms by their dog teams to the point where their lives as well as the dogs lives have been in grave danger…is there any other kind? Canadian Rangers have been on hand each year in force to help facilitate the mushers safety on and off the trail though some conditions have also placed their safety at risk. The new route will allow the emphasis to be placed back on “mushing” for mushing sake and not on the diabolical weather patterns.
For more detailed information on the Hudson Bay Quest click here.
The Winnipeg Jets were a professional hockey team in the NHL from 1972 – 1996. The team was forced to relocate to Phoenix, Arizona that year due to the economic downturn though hockey in the great white North still thrives. While talk of a franchise returning to Winnipeg, possibly from Phoenix itself escalates, other forms of Canada’s national pastime are observed in the interim. One such display was caught on film by Natural Habitat guide Brad Josephs this past polar bear season out in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area with an excited group of travelers. “>
A new plan for a polar bear exhibit at Assiniboine Park Zoo was unveiled this month with plans for a 10 acre park housing up yo six polar bears. A research center, interpretive center and orphaned cub rescue center will complete the exhibit complex. This should be quite the undertaking and as zoos go, Winnipeg weather won’t have a hard time matching Churchill’s chilly Winter temps. Here is a link to get a more in depth look at what’s to come. journeytochurchill.com
