In the Summer of 2003 I was guiding beluga whale and Arctic tundra trips for Natural Habitat Adventures in Churchill. This would be my sixth season showing avid travelers the amazing ecosystem and its’ adapted dynamics of the north. Churchill’s Summer is sublime and completely different than the Fall polar bear season in that the town blends in with the landscape and the mind is allowed to release any stressful anxieties just walking along the quiet streets. The hustle and bustle of polar bear season and the temperature issue can distract from that freedom somewhat. This Summer was different and the change was quite evident upon my arrival.
Seventy five people would go mostly unnoticed in most towns and surely polar bear season in Churchill would swallow them up in an instant, but Summer here is different…newcomers have less camouflage. A film crew of 75 from the Snow Walker production invaded the town that Summer and a buzz, aside from the constant drone from mesquitos, took over. If only for a few months, Churchill had gone Hollywood! While the contrast of personalities was glaring…..though pretty exciting….the town took in these people like they were locals. Some actual locals became part of the film with parts in the picture. Others helped build the sets and assisted any way they could. One family had their entire house redone to be used in the film. When a movie is made in many small towns elsewhere, it usually “puts the town on the map”. Churchill, as we all know, is already on the map…and most of the 900 or so residents are content with the amount of notoriety it receives now. Isn’t that the point of living in such a remote place
In those days Natural Habitat trips were spaced out…no not the travelers..well ok some…but what I mean is there were often up to a week between some scheduled trips usually due to the train schedule and availability. So that Summer I was able to observe the action at close range between meeting and guiding groups. I was asked to be an extra in the film but could not commit to a three week shooting period. And, as much as my travelers would have been impressed to know I was a movie star, I think their dreams of seeing the Arctic and most importantly a couple thousand beluga whales that migrate to the Southern Hudson Bay in Summer were a little more pressing. Still, the thought of getting my start in the film business was quite tempting…but I had a job to do. Oh well..there still is Ocean’s 13..or 14..whatever.
Another exciting experience during that Summer was a reconnaisance helicopter flight along the Knife river to the Northwest. Information had been obtained by one of the producers that a Cessna aircraft had gone down along the river many years ago and had never been salvaged. The production staff needed an old, small aircraft to use for the main crash site in the movie. I just happened to be at the right place, Hudson Bay Helicopters, when pilot Jody, local guide Dennis Compayre, who now writes a blog on Churchill and bears in Onemanspolarbear.com and one of the producers were about to take off on the excursion. I asked if they wouldn’t mind an additional passenger and they said, “another set of eyes would be great”. We stopped first out along the coast at Seal River Lodge to speak with one of the Webers and hopefully get some more information on the exact location of the downed aircraft. The main contact was out on the land so Jody spoke with him via crackling radio, got some sketchy coordinates and we headed off again to search. When we reached the North fork of the Knife we quickly realized the task at hand wasn’t going to be easy as it seemed back in town. Overgrown willows slurping up river water had formed a web so thick and high it would be very difficult to see through it. We slowly moved along the river about 100 ft off the ground, both sides, back and forth for nearly two hours but came up empty. I can remember the adrenaline flowing through my body as hopes of finding the aircraft were thrilling. We were going to strap what we could to an attached chord and bring them back to town similar to the method that polar bears are flown north. I so wanted the trip to be successful so that the adventure would continue….no luck. In the end the film crew used some old pieces from another plane. They just made a wreck from a wreck..nice work.
The town was hopping that Summer…the bars at night were filled with film people telling their stories of movies and adventure in far off lands. In the day people with watches would roam the town trying to locate things in stores…usually very cheaply…or find people they needed to speak with about the set, schedule or next film they were planning. All the time I had to remember that these days were making my stories of adventure I would look back on someday. To have the experience of working in the Arctic environment and being part of the community of Churchill and out on the water of the Hudson Bay and Churchill River almost daily with the majestic belugas and various sea-birds was incredible. To constantly be learning and teaching new links between ecosystems and how they survive that environment was invigorating. Even now, as Summer approaches, I long to be part of that web of life again….the simplicity and vastness of the land that the movie Snow Walker attempted to capture. Take a look at the film and enjoy.
In the true spirit of socialism, Canada will now offer aide to the town of Churchill , Manitoba through incentives offered through the Churchill Port Utilization Program. With a budget of 25 million dollars, the program will offer $5 million a year for the next five years to companies (read; farmers) that use the port of Churchill to deliver one of 19 different grains. With incentive payouts of $9 per tonne of grain shipped out through the deep -water Arctic seaport in 2012, the transition from the monopoly-free Canadian Wheat Board to independent farmer contractors shipping their grain out of Churchill will be a little less painful.
Steve Selden photo.
Agriculture Minister Gerry Ritz unveiled the details in Tisdale, Sask., at the Hudson Bay Route Association’s annual general meeting. Ritz said the program will keep Churchill as a strategic shipping option. The move comes as the grain-handling business in Canada adapts to the new reality of a monopoly-free Canadian Wheat Board. Legislation passed in December now offers Prairie farmers the option to choose whether to market their grain and barley products through the old system of the CWB or to explore other shipping options from other ports in Canada. Ritz pledged to help the port adjust, including $4.1 million for port maintenance and an incentive program to entice companies that hadn’t traditionally used Churchill.
NDP Churchill MP Niki Ashton said this is a clear example of the Conservative government’s disconnect between people and needs on the Prairies.
“The Conservatives showed how little they cared about Churchill by dismantling the wheat board in the first place,” said Ashton. “They got rid of the organization that made up for 90 per cent-plus of the shipments through Churchill. They’re throwing away taxpayers’ money to make up for a system that worked.”
One might ask the question; why would the government approve dissolving the power of the Canadian Wheat Board just to turn around and offer a 25 million incentive structure in order to aide the tiny town of Churchill? Is this the paradox of socialism. Dissolve a capitalistic monopoly in order to have the taxpayers be the ones to keep the level playing field or in this case….level and calm shipping waters. Nothing comes free in society…not even a socialistic based society. People need to pay for equality…whether they want to or not. If Canadians don’t want to ..they can move South. Tough choice eh?
The Port of Churchill formally gained 85 to 90 per cent of its’ shipping business from farmers and companies brokering through the CWB. Now that the market is open for the upcoming shipping season come August, it will be very interesting to see the profile of the customer base either returning to Churchill or trying the operation for the first time. Will this new incentive plan skew the actual interest over the next five years or buy time for the port to develop better operations and more diverse shipping options? And most importantly for the town of Churchill, keep the over 200 residents, almost a quarter of the town population, employed.
The incentive program is a first-come, first-served option with applications accepted after April 20. In years to follow, the applications will begin April 1. Companies will have to prove by Dec. 31 the shipment was made. Eligible applicants are those that legally arrange for and carry out shipments through Churchill on outward ocean-going vessels. The amount of each grant will depend on the amount of grain shipped.
Steve Selden photo.
Everyone will be watching as this issue develops over the Summer. The new structure may be just what the port needs to push Colorado based owner Omnitrax to look for and develop more options for shipping out of Churchill. In some ways the publicity alone through these new incentives will be phenomenal for the port as many officials, farmers and businesses will be exposed to the Arctic seaport that previously seemed to be slowly decaying up in the far North!
Awhile back I posted the first part of this documentary about the Northlander, a DC-4 rescued by a group of Inuit living in Churchill in 1955. There’s also some cool background info on Churchill in general as well as some interviews with some locals. Take a look at the footage and enjoy the story.
Churchill Summer is quickly coming and the tundra will be alive with life. beluga whales will make their way South to Churchill and inhabit the Churchill River and other rivers flowing into the Hudson Bay. keep an eye out for interesting news and previews of this most spectacular time in the Arctic. However, now, just get the popcorn and the muktuk ready and enjoy this amazing story.
Guide Karen Walker and her final Northern Lights group traveling with Natural Habitat Adventures experienced some fantastic aurora out at the Aurora Domes about 7km outside of town. the site is a leftover army base building converted into a warm aurora borealis viewing venue. This year groups have been wildly successful in sighting extended viewing periods of lights in the northern Arctic sky.
While the last group departed Churchill just prior to the Hudson Bay Quest dogsled race commencing in Gillam,MB and finishing in Churchill, the travelers were privy to some Aurorafest happenings around town and locals high anticipation of the Quest race. Typical March activities are sandwiched around aurora viewing. Trips out along Goose Creek Rd. and a stop at Bill Calnan’s B&B are always serene. Dog mushing this trip was with Blue Sky and Gerald Azur. A tour of the town complex, photo’s by the huge stone inukshuk behind the building on the shore of Hudson Bay and of course a sampling of a true Canadian sport….curling! Just to name some of the goings -on in the north country.
Here are some photo’s from this years trips…still waiting on some more good aurora pics and will post them as soon as I get them.I have a few from traveler Jeremy Pearson…enjoy. Looking forward to Arctic Summer news and anything else that happens in Churchill in the few months in between now and then. I will post some updates on the major issues facing Churchill in the coming months and year. Meanwhile here’s a recap in pictures of some high “lights” of the winter.
Jeremy Pearson photo.
Canadian Eskimo sled dog outside Arctic Trading Co.
Wolf statues in Churchill.
Sunset over frozen Churchill River.
Jeremy Pearson photo.
Guide Karen Walker and traveler Addie Lamberth at Paint Lake.
Frosty Churchill sled dogs.
Dene elder Caroline Bjorklund giving a cultural talk.
A mere 35 seconds separated two Minnesota mushers finishing first and second in the annual Hudson Bay Quest that started in Gillam, MB on March 16th and finished Monday March 19th in Churchill, MB. Shawn McCarty from Ely, MN took first place and was followed in second by Troy Groenveld from Two Harbors, Minnesota. Third place was captured by Stefan DeMarie from Christopher Lake, Saskatchewan. The Red Lantern was secured by Jesse Terry from Sioux Lookout, Ontario. The total field was comprised of 16 mushers from the United States and Canada. Below is the official list of entrants. Click this photo link for some great pictures taken during the race.
Ernest Azure, Churchill MB
David Daley, Churchill MB
Stefaan DeMarie, Christopher Lake SK
Dan DiMuzio, Churchill MB
Blake Freking. Finland MN (USA)
Troy Groeneveld, Two Harbors MN (USA)
John Hickes, Rankin Inlet, NU
Barney Kalluak, Arviat NU
Marvin Lizotte. Lake Louise AB
Charlie Lundie, Churchill MB
Shawn McCarty, Ely MN (USA)
Peter McClelland, Ely MN (USA)
Kolby Morrison, Linden AB
Ed “The Sled” Obrecht, Otter Lake QC
Burton Penner, Vermillion Bay ON
Jesse Terry, Sioux Lookout ON
The Hudson Bay Quest now runs between Gillam, MB to the south and Churchill, MB on the edge of the Hudson Bay and no longer utilizes the 200 mile route to and from Arviat which traversed along the Hudson Bay ice edge. When conditions became too erratic and dangerous for mushers in a three-day blizzard in 2009, race officials called the race at the halfway point and the new route was born. Now, the 400 kilometer trek from Gillam to Churchill following along the edge of Wapusk National Parc is a self sufficient race with mushers carrying supplies for the entire route. It’s also a much safer race without the threat of traveling along the dangerous ice edge of the bay.
Brad Josephs photo.
The 2012 Quest provided other challenges that all four Churchill mushers could not overcome. 2011 champion Charlie Lundie, Dan DiMuzio, Earnest Azure, and David Daley, race co-founder and owner of Wapusk Adventures , all withdrew from the race before finishing. Perhaps the lack of snow in Churchill this past Fall polar bear season contributed to teams not being prepared enough to conquer this years event. The festivities culminated this past Monday with an awards banquet in the Churchill town complex gymnasium. Great Northern spirit was shared by all!
Final standings and race observations can be found at the Hudson Bay Quest Facebook page. More in depth analysis of the race to follow in the next few weeks.
While awaiting the final results of the Hudson Bay Quest to be posted, we can relive what some avid travelers from Natural Habitat Adventures experienced the past couple of weeks. Guide Karen Walker and her third and fourth groups of the season were chasing the northern lights in the Arctic seaport of Churchill. Last year’s overall stormy and overcast weather have given way to this years more clearer skies for optimal viewing. With consistently frigid temperatures in the negative digits all month long, the night sky has remained clear enough for magnificent displays.
Karen and her fourth group of the season experienced some magic on the 36 hour train ride from Winnipeg to Churchill. While stopped at the station in Gillam, this years starting point for the Hudson Bay Quest, the night sky to the South unveiled a slight glimmer of green aurora and most guests were able to watch from their sleeper- cabin rooms on that same side. The display continued for about an hour giving the group a preview of more prominent lights farther North.Once in Thompson, the group boarded a bus and made the journey to Pisew Falls, a regular stop on Arctic Summer excursions though rarely accessible in Winter. The ice – encrusted falls are reached via boardwalk that winds down through the forest to a pair of staggered observation platforms. The ice and snow build up around the falls coupled with the peacefulness of the frozen forest create a serenity of a forgotten place. Some also made the trek through snow down another trail ,across the parking lot, leading to an elaborate suspension bridge over a river in the forest. I have made many treks through these woods to these sites with Summer groups. Good times in the North!
The following evening, out at the aurora domes, the night sky reacted to the recent solar storm activity and provided sublime entertainment for four to five hours. The lights would shift from dim to intense throughout the night thrilling guests and giving the photographers in the group ample photo opportunities. The entire sky was filled with dancing, moving lights of greenish tint.
The next day wind lowered the -33 C temp to -47 C wind chill. After a morning presentation by famed Metis elder Myrtle Demeulles, the group braved a dog-sledding excursion with Wapusk Adventures. Dave Daley, owner and head musher, was away at the Canadian Challenge so his able assistants out at Joe Buck’s ridge took good care of the adventurous travelers.
A quite different, more subdued display of aurora showed itself that evening out at the domes. An undulating, flowing light filled most of the sky once again much to the delight of a very fortunate group travelers. the fast moving lights were moving from the West to Northeast with a nice fuller moon to the South..providing nice light on the snowy tundra for photo effects. Another spectacular evening!
The final night of viewing was not to be outdone as the group arrived at the domes after a late dinner. “Really,really good” was how guide Karen described the display..albeit short-lived. As the final traces of light faded into the hazy sky around 11:30 pm, the group breathed a collective sigh acknowledging how fortunate they had been on this journey north.
Topping off the adventure the following day the group tried their hands at curling ..a true northern experience not to be missed. All had “a great time” according to Karen.
