by Steve Selden | Oct 29, 2010 | Tour News
Winter officially, finally arrived in the North. Churchill continues to be blanketed by the first blizzard-like snowfall of the season. The storm showed signs of developing last night when the wind whipped up to 40mph and brought the cold air necessary for the freezing rain to make the transition to the good stuff. With the familiar dusting on the ground around noon, the hammer began to fall in the early afternoon as the snow-filled wind hit with a vengeance. The old Northern Nights hotel used to have the slogan “Bears, Beluga’s and Beers”…and though he Beluga’s have made their safe passage back North to the Hudson Straits, the Bears are surely elated with the fresh powder and almost everyone involved with wildlife viewing, namely polar bear watching, in Churchill is more than likely having a couple of the others to celebrate as well. Slainte!
Snow covered inukshuk in Churchill. NHA photo.
One of those bears was spotted by conservation down behind the town complex by the snow-covered inukshuk. As they gave chase, the firs cracker shells in a long time were heard ringing out over the Hudson Bay. The little young sub-adult disappeared over and down into the rocks heading East toward the Churchill River.
Guide Melissa noted that early in the day, despite the rising wind and surging front, bear activity in the CWMA was “great”. the highlight surely was two big males wrestling and sparring… breaking, then at it again. Then near and around the tundra lodge, there were roughly 15 bruins all active and involved in a subtle game of “polar bear risk”; pushing each other from place to place with very little physical contact. All in the group were enthralled with the various aspects revealing themselves like a contrived psychological experiment…this is the real thing for sure.
Slightly after what seemed like a calm was coming over the bears, the sow and cub that had been resting South of the lodge in a little spruce oasis moved in to hang with the big boys and show her independence. After a while of passive resistance, the mom finally felt the pressure and was forced back to her safe haven with cub defiantly in tow.
Polar bear resting and being a bit shy. NHA photo.
Guide Elise had her rover moving toward the tundra lodge when they passed closely by a sleeping bear. The male stood up near willows, moved around a little then returned to his spot for stretching and rolling maneuvers…great photo’s with snow-dusted fur and a good clump on the nose and paws raised to the sky. Snow on these guys is like powdered sugar on a big bear brownie….uh..sort of.
After more bears, starting to hunker down now at the lodge, the rover headed back on the quickly vanishing trail following an arctic hare part of the way. They had some excitement on the shuttle driving back to town as the driver’s windshield wiper blade froze up. Slow and steady.
Guide Scott and group started their day slowly with a couple of sleeping bears around 10:30 in the morning out East near first tower. One remained past out near a thermokarst while the other ventured over and walked right out into the rover trail. With another hour of relatively minor activity, the group rumbled toward Ptarmigan Alley and arrived just in time for some epic sparring activity. Two young adult males- just around 300lbs. each- were going at it pretty hard about a quarter mile East of Gordon Point. the drama unfolded over an hour and a half period with 10-minute breaks in between the rough-housing. This definitely overshadowed the flock of 16 pure white Ptarmigan the group saw early that morning by a little bit. As the snow continued to dump heavily this sparring seemed to be the “perfect scenario to accompany the first storm of the season”. as Scott saw it. Stay tuned for more to come.
by Steve Selden | Oct 28, 2010 | Tour News
Despite the increasing wind and scattered freezing rain throughout the course of the day, the wildlife activity in the Churchill region was definitely up the proverbial “notch”. The wind began to turn from East to North later on and the forecast for snow raised the spirits of all tundra explorers in town. Both from the air on helicopter denning excursions and from the sheltered, heated tundra polar rovers, a plethora of wildlife, namely polar bear, activity was enjoyed by travelers visiting from all over the world.
A polar bear tries its best to get some fresh meat. Steve Selden photo.
Following a cultural presentation by Caroline Bjorklund on Dene culture in the North with fresh baked bannock for sampling, a break in the weather in the later morning allowed guide Sandra’s and Melissa’s groups to take off in Hudson Bay Helicopters well-oiled machines. Travelers headed out on a winding excursion over the tundra culminating with a southeast landing to explore an abandoned polar bear den. As fascinating as that adventure was, the journey there was even more so. The flight featured views of four sets of sows and cubs, one of those with coys. After traveling quite a long distance South, a small herd of about six caribous was spotted feeding on moss on the tundra. Shortly after, as the choppers followed the Deer River which runs just about parallel to the Churchill River in the South, two beautiful bull moose was seen on a small willow filled island in the river. As the group neared Cape Churchill, polar bears were “everywhere” in this popular resting area for the animals. Melissa’s folks also spotted an arctic fox meandering along the tundra sniffing out lemming scents all the way. Some unconfirmed reports of wolves seen in Wapusk National Park stirred everyone’s imagination.
Guide Karen and group were on the land in the CWMA out by the Flats area with a polar bear about 15 feet away stretching and posing for photos. Others were in the distance but this one seemed oblivious to the groups’ presence. A little farther East, the rover pulled up on two at about 50 feet. A perfect viewing spot for the action to follow. The two males rose up and started sparring in 10-15 minute rounds. They would go at it pretty hard then take a break and start up again. After about an hour, the two walked coast-ward across a thermokarst that wasn’t completely frozen enough to hold their weight. Breaking through the ice up to his knees seemed to be exactly what one of them wanted as he looked to be cooling off after the heavyweight title fight.
Off in another direction, not far from the bears was a good, large flock of ptarmigan…once again exposed to the tundra…with their pure white feathers. This was “one of the best encounters of the season” according to Karen as the flock even obliged the group more by flying off about a hundred yards and landing close to some sheltering willows. Ptarmigan Flight is not a behavior often seen out on the tundra.
Guide Brent’s group also had an active viewing day in the CWMA. Just at the outset of the day, the group saw a number of bears moving back from the coast toward the tundra lodge. The contingent was made up mostly of young males moving in a zigzagging funnel shape over the tundra. They were involved in a complex game of mutual avoidance while occasionally surprising each other from behind a stand of willows. Some would take part in play fighting in the willows..no full on sparring but still some grappling and muzzling going on. One of the males seemed overly paranoid as he slashed around in the willows then walked backward at times when heading for an encounter with another bear. All in all, Brent characterized the scene as bears “acting like youngsters” in a clearly changing behavior scheme out on the land.
As the wind increased with the waning day, the surf in the Hudson Bay was kicking up some gnarly whitecaps that pounded the shield of the shore. Eiders held fast in their rock sheltered shallows counting the minutes for the tide to ebb. Ptarmigan, “sticking out like sore thumbs”; aptly put by Brent, scurried for willow cover as the wind whipped horizontally across the region. The thin, cold rain illuminated the tundra with a lacquer coating that enhanced colors of lichen while exposing deep blues and steel grays of glacial rock rising out of the spongy ground. Northern exposure!
Later, near the tundra lodge, Brent positioned his group’s rover so one of the “biggest” bears he had ever encountered could climb alongside, curious of the payload. The massive bruin, 800-900lbs, peered in the windows not even completely stretched out. When he first leaned against the machine, he rocked the cabin with a thump. He moved down the side as Brent adjusted a window and again rocked the rover with all his weight. The huge scarred nose fogging the outside of the glass felt like a Halloween slasher flick in real time. Trick or meat anyone?
Guide Scot’s travelers were positioned in the lodge area most of the day. Ironically he, not Brent, characterized the day as “rocking out there”. No monster bears pushing his vehicle around I guess. The day began with great looks at a sow with two cubs just East of the tundra lodge in a little spruce cropping. Seemingly all at once, a big male came around from behind them just as five other males moved out of the willows and around the same area. Mom retreated with cubs to a safe distance. Two of the bears were roughly two and a half years -old just released by mom last Spring. Their exuberance caused some tenseness within the congregation as guttural roaring was heard from underneath and behind the lodge as the group interacted while moving about. Then, while Scott and group enjoyed lunch and hot drinks, another big 700lb male came upon the scene and pushed all the smaller, younger bears away. he then moved back behind the lodge and settled somewhere in the high willows. A little bit later two smaller bears returned. One was a mud-splotched female who seemed angry with the world.
As the group just started to head off back toward launch, Guide Leah from the lodge signaled Scott to stop his rover. Out from behind the East facing side of the lodge appeared what at first looked like the 700lb bruiser bear though everyone soon realized this guy had another150lbs bulked under his bristly yellowish, white fur. His giant head stared at the rover as they finally bid goodbye to the fantastic day.
by Steve Selden | Oct 27, 2010 | Tour News
A windy pre-election day in Churchill and the surrounding region. With the prevailing East wind came the wide range of weather over the last two days. Sleet and rain battled back and forth throughout the day finally trailing off to windy conditions. The forecast is for scattered freezing rain changing to snow at the end of the week. All this changing weather may be the weather gods signaling a change in the office of mayor ….Brian LaDoon..mayor of Churchill? Find out tomorrow.
Out at the tundra lodge, far away from bustling downtown Churchill, the folks lead by Guides Rinnie and Leah were enjoying a rare scene. Four or five bears that have been occupying the area around the lodge migrated about a quarter mile down to the edge of the Hudson Bay and were feeding on a seal -kill. The bears fed on the high-fat content meat throughout a good part of the day providing all on the lodge and a few rovers in the area with incredible looks and photographs. Although the seal ignited some tension over the feeding process, no sparring occurred. A couple of bears rose up on hind legs and feinted at sparring though the fresh meat on the beach changed their minds. The red blood smeared over their faces and paws made for interesting photos and lasting images in everyone’s minds.
Some of the lodge group ventured out East on the rover and came across a sow with two yearlings lounging near some willows. Then, a little later, a sow and two coy’s (cubs of the year) were discovered wandering and then resting just west of Ptarmigan Alley in the flats area. Great sightings for a gray weather day on the land in the CWMA. Back to the warm, comfortable lodge for a gourmet dinner. While at their base for the week, the early evening brought out the four arctic foxes that have taken up residence under and around the lodge. Some snow buntings and a flock of healthy, energetic willow ptarmigan in full white plumage filled out the landscape as the arctic light slowly melted away.
Polar bears sniffing the wind along the trails of the CWMA. Chuck Schoffner photo.
Guide Amy and travelers continued to discover great experiences out on the land. They came up to the aforementioned seal kill on the the beach with a huddle of bears surrounding it. Bloody faces peered up from time to time as a smaller male looked on from a distance. There seemed to be a pecking order of sorts playing out within the population on the scene. Later in the day as the group passed by on the way in, the little guy and a few ravens were finishing off the scraps left over. Flipper licking good!
As the gray clouds melded together and wind velocity increased, the rover headed out to Christmas Lake Esker. A nice look at the edge of the boreal forest and some fresh caribou tracks on the land next to the rover painted a vivid picture of life in this sub-arctic landscape.
The wind increased even more as the group arrived at Gordon point and within sight of a sow and a two- year old cub. Shortly after arriving they witnessed a large male heading methodically in the pair’s direction. Once mom caught scent off the crisp wind, mom stood up. surveyed the threat, then started loping off hurriedly with her cub stopping every few moments keeping a nervous eye on the male. The two moved just past the rover never even noticing the machine…more mindful of the intruder instead. The feel of being present in nature while these interactions unfold is priceless.
A polar bear near the willows in Churchill. Chuck Schoffner photo.
In town, many groups had the thrill of a 700lb male being air-lifted via helicopter up the coast to be released. This bear was the first bear to be incarcerated for the season and finally made bail for freedom. Rumor has it that a certain mayoral candidate posted bail in order to gain support from nature enthusiasts and animal rights activists. Film at eleven.
by Steve Selden | Oct 26, 2010 | Tour News
Churchill experienced the full spectrum of weather conditions this day. Scattered snow squalls turned to rain then sunny skies back into some snow squalls and finally warming up slightly by days end. Polar bears continue to build their numbers in the area as guides report groups viewing between eight and 17 bears on the tundra over the course of a day.
A polar bear resting in the willows in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area. Colby Brokvist photo.
Guide Brad and travelers had a stellar day out in the CWMA. He reported, conservatively, around 14 bear encounters over the course of the ever-changing day. At the outset, the group came upon a sow and two cubs crossing a small frozen thermokarst between Halfway Point and the Eastern flats area. Where else in the world can you have your morning coffee while watching a family of polar bears from the comfort of a heated polar rover?
Once out at the flats, the group viewed a number of bears, mostly males, in different behavior modes. One very large male sported a foot-long gash under the left arm. Brad speculated that this could have possibly been one of those bears a few days back that enjoyed the seal kill along the coast. There was some heated aggression between the fortunate feeder that day and this guy might have taken the brunt of the confrontation. This bear looked as if he was going to survive as the gash appeared to be healing up. Any wound or fracture too severe could spell doom for any animal this time of year with the harsh winter conditions set in.
Churchill polar bear by the airport. Colby Brokvist photo.
Moving back toward the tundra lodge area, a vibrant red fox was seen and followed for a short time as it tried to capture a lemming or two in the tundra’s ground cover. Then back around the lodge exuberant photographers clicked away as they were capturing arctic fox and polar bears in the same frames with various juxtapositions and interactions. No chasing going on this day but the two species seemed truly at ease with each other.
The wealth of wildlife sightings did not end once the group disembarked from their rover….on the way back into town aboard a shuttle, a big three-year-old male was walking along in the willows and along the lichen-encrusted rocks across from the airport. Once bears start to stray from the CWMA out East and explore the outskirts of Churchill, everyone comes to realize that the season is in full swing. Back in town, another red fox was patrolling the grounds around the ponds in front of the Churchill grain port…the group’s last sighting before heading for dinner themselves. Over dinner, the group recounted the day and their thrilling evening rover trip the previous night when another big male confronted the rover head on and planted his face and paws right up tight to the windshield. A pretty good 24 hours.
Guide Amy was wiping, for lack of a better word, “snot” off her boots recounting how an “unflappable” large male spent a long time underneath her group’s rover and sniffed and apparently slobbered on many boots. Unfazed by any human movement, the only irritation displayed came when he chased off another smaller male and exhorted an uncommon growl almost sounding akin to a lion. Sniffing boots can be risky business in the high North.
Also out by the tundra lodge, the photo’s of the day came when two bears were caught with a flock of roughly two dozen ptarmigan in fhe foreground. Rick the seasoned rover driver remarked that he had “never seen that kind of cool wildlife combo before” out on the land. The sun that was peeking through the clouds soon vanished and as the group sat up on the rise above Bird Cove, light arctic rain began to fall on the lichen splattered, gray rocks. A brilliant white arctic fox popped up from behind a boulder, posed for a few moments and then scurried off. Time for this group to do the same.
by Steve Selden | Oct 25, 2010 | Tour News
A calm overcast day in the Churchill region with a beautiful sunrise greeting transport buses headed out to the rover launch area. Temperatures stayed under the freezing mark continuing to facilitate ice formation on the tundra scattered ponds. No surf today for transplanted Californians.
Guide Steve Morello, returning to Churchill to guide three photo trips this season after a long hiatus, was enjoying a “great trip” with photographers in the group having some wonderful Northern light to compliment the animal sightings. A highlight of the day included a male bear breaking away loose chunks of ice forming on a thermokarst out around the flats area close to Gordon Point. The bear would then occupy itself with a frozen chunk..playfully tossing and chewing it while rolling on his back in animated fashion. Later on that afternoon, the shots of the day came when the rover pulled up to a sow and two cubs resting peacefully near some willows between Ptarmigan Alley and the tundra lodge. The cubs had that epic positioning of heads resting on their mom’s back as they huddled close to feel the warmth of her fur. Wildlife photographers paradise! A greater scaup by the bay was an added bonus for the birders in the group.
For guide Sue and her group, the day had an auspicious beginning with a polar bear mom and cub at Gordon Point almost in the exact area that guide Paul and group watched nursing just yesterday. A safe secure spot with ample visibility for any males looking for trouble….or a cub.
Polar bear heading down to the shore. Paul Brown photo.
Another medium -sized male bear was quite curious just as the rover moved up the trail toward Ptarmigan Alley. The bruin came toward the vehicle, sniffing at the bumper as if inspecting it and finally allowing the group to continue as they followed the coast road searching for birds. The bear plodded along the road as well. Churchill bird expert and guide Bonnie Chartier, between her own lodge groups, was on board to find all avian life in the CWMA.
Soon the group was watching black-bellied plovers pecking along the tidal flats on a stopover from their journey North to South. Some eiders were spotted in the shallows of the bay and some long-tailed ducks flew over frenetically flapping with plans for a Southern journey imminent. Long tails were previously known as oldsquaws but that moniker fell out of favor due to the negative connotations of the word squaw in English usage. Biologists similarly felt the name to be offensive to some native American tribes involved in a conservation effort to protect the bird. Sighting “political correctness” being insufficient to change the name in 2000, the American Ornithologists’ Union did officially grant the change “to conform with English usage in other parts of the world”. Phew….now I can sleep.
As the rover traveled East toward the flats, a male seemed to define “walking hibernation” as his trance-like slumber mesmerized the group. Opening his eyes appeared arduous while stretching catlike several times before returning to dreamland once again….mmmm ringed seals with au jus sauce…lick lips…cut.
The area was stocked with about a dozen polar bears all active and some endeavoring to spar. Lunchtime was a perfect reason to stay put and take in the action on the surrounding tundra. While enjoying hot soup and sandwiches the travelers watched as a young fat male challenged an older, skinnier yet taller male. The smaller male tried to tip the scales by positioning himself on top of a large glacial rock pushed into the area about 200, 000 years ago. Watching the balancing act was as enjoyable and entertaining as the sparring itself.
As the day waned a huge 900lb male polar bear walked past in the near distance and moved along the tidal flats uninterested and unfazed by the rover and its’ passengers. The light to the North accentuated the muscular frame of the bear as he became smaller on the horizon. As the group circled and then headed back on the inland road another set of mother and cubs was sighted resting peacefully in the willows..a perfect way to finish up an amazing day before returning back into Churchill.
Back in town, guide Brad told of a rare sighting of an all blue phase arctic fox in town. This fox will not turn white in winter appearing stunningly beautiful against its’ winter backdrop.
Guide Karen had some folks out on dog “carts” ..custom made vehicles used to simulate the snow. All enjoyed the experience immensely.
Sled dogs on the move in the Churchill bush. Colby Brokvist photo.
by Steve Selden | Oct 24, 2010 | Tour News
Sunlight filtered through dark embedded clouds throughout the Southwestern Hudson Bay providing a break in the overcast windy trend of the past few days. With the town of Churchill in full-on polar bear season mode, the main attraction seems to be increasing in numbers as well as activity level all across the tundra. Cooler air allows the water covering the land to freeze up and allow polar bears to travel more easily and directly.
The shipping process is finally in motion again as two new vessels have replaced the two previously quarantined at the dock due to high winds. Two others remain out in the bay to finish up the season at 22 total vessels for the season. Grain arrives in Churchill by way of railroad boxcar as soon as Summer harvest in Western Canada-mainly Saskatchewan- allows. As soon as enough boxcars accumulate to ensure a viable trip down South, then they are taken out. Right now 126 empty cars stretch from just past the port away from town like a makeshift wall between Churchill and the river to the East. The Via Rail passenger train, filled with weary, excited travelers, pulled in just a couple of hours behind schedule in the foreground on the main line greeted by the bustling historic train depot.
Polar bear hanging low on the Precambrian rocks in Churchill. Paul Brown Photo.
Meanwhile, the tundra of the CWMA was bustling with polar bear activity. Guide Sue had her group out around the flats region where five bears filled the landscape. Two males came together and sparred for about 10 minutes thrilling all on the rover. A mother and cub around First Tower near Ptarmigan Alley provided additional photo fodder. Then, out along the tidal flats North of the tundra lodge, a mom and two cubs were the highlight of the afternoon as they moved across the horizon with the Hudson Bay and dark lined clouds as a backdrop. Another five bears were all around the tundra lodge under the train -like structure and near the willows. All in all a “fantastic day” according to Sue….her travelers concur I’m sure.
A polar bear curious of Nat Hab’s polar rover. Paul Brown Photo.
Guide Paul and his contingent of avid folks were greeted soon after leaving launch area out near the tundra lodge by a female polar bear. She seemed to be ushering rovers into the area surrounding the lodge. Shortly after that action, they were fortunate to have one of those big males, this one about nine feet long, near the lodge, find the energy to climb up against their rover rearing his huge paws only a foot below the top rail of the back platform. A lot of arctic air was sucked in by those present.
The group then headed out East to the land by the first tower and ate lunch while watching the interaction between a sow and her cub. A change of pace from the earlier experience though just as exhilarating for all. As the pair moved off a for privacy, Paul’s scope allowed for great looks at nursing behavior. With another few active bears at Halfway Point and some great ptarmigan sightings, Paul described this as “the best day of the season”.
Guide Karen and her group enjoyed an enchanting evening dinner on the tundra lodge amid beautiful soft, glowing light before sunset. The mood was surely enhanced when a large playful male polar bear started chasing a pure white arctic fox in and out of the nearby willows. This amazing encounter persisted until another two arctic foxes decided to join the fun. All through dinner the animals darted in and out of the willows sometimes reappearing on the other side of the lodge or underneath the grated observation decks linking the different rooms of the lodge. Finally, the bear had enough and paused for a while, sniffing at boots through the metal grate. Then, as the lodge driver pulled his rover up to dock at the rear supply door, the bear sauntered over and stood up against the vehicle as all watched..even as chocolate moose waited on the table. Willpower.
A polar bear sniffs a boot on the back deck of the polar rover. Paul Brown Photo.
