by Steve Selden | Nov 15, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
The polar bear stretch is widely viewed in the great north country! Dennis Minty photo.
Still no deep chill up here in Churchill. Temperatures ranged in the mid 20’s F and the clouds continued to cover like a warm blanket over the region. The incredible consistency of mildly cool weather has surely contributed to the prolific omnipresence of Polar Bears. Old Inuit saying: Little ice, many bears. No season in recent memory, mine and according to all the locals I speak with, compares to this one. Foxes of all sorts constantly appear in every direction one turns, both night and day. I even saw one in Gypsy’s having an espresso….the quite rare blond morph. Ahhh…life in Churchill.
Out on the land, guide Paul and travelers observed multiple sparring interactions on the coast road. Continuing out East the group caught up with three sets of moms with cubs off Halfway Point on the ice. Then, as their rover patrolled the coast road, another four moms with COY’s (cubs of the year) were wandering and occasionally settling in the kelp beds for some rest and nursing. While guides are normally saturated with bear and tundra experience by this time of the season, this season keeps exposing both guides and travelers to incredible new happenings. The latest for Paul’s entourage was a white-morph Gyrfalcon soaring high above the rocky coast at Gordon Point. Well received by the group, this largest of all the true falcons–roughly two-feet long with a four-foot wingspan–can live up to 20 years in the harsh Arctic wild….an amazing challenge for any creature.
Meanwhile Guide Karen and her folks spent the morning out near the Tundra Lodge where good numbers of bears were having a pretty calm time of it with not too much interaction going on. Soon a curious sub-adult headed towards their rover and stood up on the rear of the vehicle taking a closer look inside. After sniffing boots from underneath the back deck grate, he gave way to a mom with two coys walking right up to the rover as well. With these two animals in the foreground and another mom with two cubs at a distance directly behind them in the snow drifts, photographers were able to capture a full frame of bears indeed. Later in the afternoon, near the coast, the group witnessed a mom and her two year-old on the ice just barely forming along the shore. Mom was leading her cub by sort of surfing her body along the surface with her leg crashing through every few steps. With just enough ice to keep them atop the water, cub followed intently behind, learning precious skills all the while. The day came to a dramatic finish on the tundra when out at Halfway Point a mom with another set of two-year olds seemingly posed on the rocks for all aboard the rover. The majestic scene was soon interrupted however by a very large male approaching while huffing at the cubs. Mom quickly ushered them on their way and out of danger up the rocks then back inland through some willows. Not a bad “bring your cubs to the tundra day” for this fortunate Nat Hab group of Karen’s.
Guide Scott characterized the bear viewing as “madness on the tundra” reiterating the fact that this has been the most amazing season in his guiding tenure. It was obvious his uncharted enthusiasm was absorbed by his group as I ran into them before dinner…lots of smiles. Aside from the numerous mom and cub(s) sightings out around Gordon Point for his travelers, the highlight was a big male running “full tilt” for almost thirty yards. This surely is a rare sight at this time of the year as Polar Bears are nearly exhausted of energy by now. Another sign that this season’s bears are in good shape due to an extended seal hunting season on the Hudson Bay ice last year. Another great day in Churchill!
by Steve Selden | Nov 14, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
Polar bears will need to find alternate food sources in order to survive. Andrew Derocher photo.
Local Mike Macri was down at the “flats” just outside town on the Churchill River working on his bungalow; “Hacienda”,as he fondly refers to it; when he glanced toward the water and saw a Polar Bear floating in the water on thin grease ice. The bear was heading North toward the bay trying to remain on the surface of the precarious platform. Honestly, I couldn’t make this stuff up. The flats of Churchill houses an eclectic collection of cottages steeped in history. And, with the array of these tiny ‘cottages’ (seeing is believing) comes an even more eclectic collection of Churchillian characters. I surely couldn’t make them up. Mike has been trying to move things around on his property before the rumored official sub-division process takes place. Currently, anyone who has a building down there is technically “squatting” on the land. When the division process goes through, the lots will be offered for sale first to current tenants and then to the general public. Waterfront property on the Churchill River sounds good to me…ahhh Beluga’s and birds in the Summer; Polar Bears and Arctic Foxes in the Winter…wait, can you say Thomas Hearne? Yeah…um…scratch that idea!
Guide Melissa reports a “schwak” of bears with incredible numbers of mothers and cubs in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area. Her group is astounded by the activity and numbers. Two consecutive years of late spring ice break-up has apparently allowed for such proliferation of bear population in the Churchill area this season. An Arctic fox out by the coast was a welcome surprise as well as a flock or two of Willow Ptarmigan weaving in and out of, that’s right, willows along the way. The magical moment, albeit fleeting, came at the very outset of the day when the group glimpsed a Black wolf by the “highway” near the propane tanks by the airport. This elusive creature has been spotted once by myself when I was guiding a Summer group – he was loping over the road just before the weir. Majestic like the anti-ghost.
Travelers in Guide Brad’s group were witness today to unending sparring around the Tundra Lodge as big males grew increasingly impatient. Faint blood stains are noticed on their yellowish fur these days as the mock fighting intensifies. Rarely do bears maim each other during this seasonal ritual but this year we have certainly seen more bloodshed and crooked, scarred noses than past seasons. Lack of ice has the Polar Bears anxious and somewhat more ill- tempered. The group also enjoyed the pleasure of an Arctic fox joining them for a good 20 minutes while camped at Bird Cove. Later on, these folks also spent a good amount of time at the “nursery” in the Gordon Point vicinity where a plethora of mothers with cubs congregate these days. With the onset of a true Northern winter imminent, the tundra, bathed in a reddish glow over combined with snow’s bright white seemed to accept its fate once again as another spectacular day of wildlife viewing came to a close.
by Steve Selden | Nov 13, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
The Hudson Bay remains calm with scattered ice chunks floating towards shore aided by light North winds. Temperatures hovered around 25F, just low enough to allow bears to continue moving all across the tundra and in and around town. The sound of cracker shells, so common now they almost go unnoticed, reverberates through town day and night. The bear holding compound is still at the capacity of 26 and bear lifts are imminent.
Guide Melissa reported “bears everywhere” in the CWMA surrounded by perfect, soft lighting. All types of behavior; sparring males, sleeping bears in the willows and kelp beds and curious bears around the rover all made for another good morning. Between the lodge and Gordon Point, the group witnessed bears trying to get out farther on the ice. Mom was ahead testing the tenuous surface while cubs trailed energetically behind. Once at Gordon Point a sow was nursing her cub amongst the kelp while our travelers watched calmly. Later, just as the groups were returning to launch, an Arctic Fox came running by the rovers giving travelers a nice tundra send – off. On the way into town Melissa’s group caught glimpse of a Red fox on the outskirts trying to find a lemming before sundown.
Polar bears in Churchill. Melissa Scott Photo.
Guide Sue and her loyal folks were on their town and area excursion when an Arctic hare paused just near the bus then zig-zagged through the snow, across the rocks away from view. Shortly after the group was by the Inukshuk behind the complex just as a bear came running frantically along the beach heading into the rocks towards Cape Merry. The animal must have found a safe spot to bed down for the time being as Natural Resource officers were at a loss as to where he was. Later as the group headed out on their night rover trip, two Red fox bid them good-bye from the Polar Inn. Not long after they departed launch in the rover, many bears appeared over the tundra. An Arctic fox ran by as a large sub-adult seemingly led the rover along the trail toward the Tundra Lodge. He guided them slowly then veered off and out across a frozen pond. A sure highlight once at the lodge was long-time resident “Rocky” growling at two other big bears in the territory. All three bruins were nose to nose before the two others moved away deferring to the champ. Yo Adrian! Adrian! These two may have joined in some sparring bouts later on as well. Middleweight class.
Guide Sandra’s troupe was quite enjoying the night rover experience as well… laughing and joking incessantly…mostly directed in Sandra’s direction albeit in adoring fashion while the sparring was happening in the vicinity of the lodge. Bears everywhere. On the way in from a fun night, the group saw an Arctic hare scampering along in the dusky light. Good night.
by Steve Selden | Nov 12, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
Temperatures fluctuated between 20F and 27F in the Churchill region. It seems Indian Summer has some staying power here in a time that can be much colder with gale force winds. Both those conditions have been infrequent to date. The sea ice remains distant in the Hudson Bay while very minimal land -fast ice has materialized thus far. Our groups will be gone before the bears are this season.
Out at the Tundra Lodge three sets of sows and cubs continue to mill around the living quarters. Two mothers each with two cubs and one mother with one cub caught the eyes of all as they meandered in and out of willows and underneath the lodge. Meanwhile sparring males, also at the lodge, allowed for an interesting dichotomy between their roughhousing and the cuddling and sporadic nursing of the moms and cubs all within one span of vision. At one point during the day there were three sets of male sparring at the same time. While the bears were surely the marquee act on the tundra stage, an Arctic Fox also appeared twice during the day…once at dawn and again at dusk. Another thrill for the people on the lodge with Guide’s Rinnie and Leah was seeing a Snowy owl hanging around along the coastal road. And they all will not soon forget the three tantalizing nights of aurora borealis activity in a secluded, supremely dark location. Another amazing trip.
Polar bears sparring near the Tundra Lodge. Elise Lockton photo.
Guide Sue and her people enjoyed a perfect morning. The start of the day, near Halfway Point, featured two large males and 2 smaller bears right under the grate of the back deck sniffing soles. Bears have an incredible sense of smell and can pick up a scent from miles away. Their sensory cells must be on overload once they are up close and personal with our travelers. Also at Halfway Point, three big males walked around the rover all within 10 yards. All this action was in the books before 10:00 AM. Out by the lodge a mother with her newborn (or “COY”: Cub of the Year) and another mom and two Coys were frolicking and grouping together for warmth. A number of males were sparring off and on as well while a bear was asleep in the kelp out near the coast.
The day became a little more interesting around two o’clock, between the lodge and Gordon Point, when Sues’ rover became stuck in a shallow pond as the ice gave way. When the driver tried to climb out of the slushy mix, the tire punctured and the group had to endure a tire change. A good story down the road for sure. Later, in the waning light, the group was rewarded for their patience as the stellar sunlight was an exquisite backdrop for an Arctic Fox appearing in the distance. Curiosity got the better of him and he winded his way over to the machine as the group remained perfectly quiet. After spending some time, the creature passed by the side and wandered away disappearing into tundra and sky. Later in the evening, the group capped a fantastic Churchill day by taking in an aurora display out at Cape Merry. With brilliant white stars as a backdrop in the steel black sky, the greenish arc of lights curtained out over the gurgling, vast void of the Hudson Bay.
Guide Jared and crew saw what Jared stated as “the most bears I’ve ever seen at one time”. Seven sets of families, several sparring bouts at the lodge and bears lounging out East were the main events of the day. On the way back in to town, all eyes were treated to several Red fox along the way. Another spectacular day on the tundra.
by Steve Selden | Nov 11, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
Conservation officer Graham reports that the Polar Bear Compound, fondly known as D20, is at capacity of 26 Polar Bears even after multiple bear lifts this past week. This really comes as no surprise given the constant sightings and incidences day and night around Churchill. Sleep is hard to come by for Conservation officers trying to secure the town from the furry interlopers. Bears are very restless as the sea ice has blown out into the Hudson Bay and the temperature has remained just below freezing at about 25F. This bodes well for all our avid bear watchers being treated to a banner season that just seems to keep getting better by the day. No complaints here.
Polar bear holding facility in Churchill. Natural Habitat Adventures photo.
Speaking of bear lifts, travelers in Guide Jared’s group received an unexpected bonus as they were whisked out to the compound just in time to witness a bear evacuation bound for the Seal River area. While waiting at D20, the plot thickened! A mother with her two cubs appeared just over the rise to the airport side and headed directly for the jail, as it were. It seems odd that potential prisoners would be chased away after quite plainly showing up to turn themselves in; but that’s what happened…crackers anyone? The lift was “carried out” over an awestruck audience and you can bet the cell wasn’t vacant long at all. Jared’s folks were allowed the rare peek inside the compound from the open entrance. Earlier that morning the group had watched as a bear was chased from behind Northern Nights hotel. The huge, though somewhat skinny bruin, retreated up the hill and eventually was forced out toward the bay in the direction of Cape Merry then across the river. Not long after this event, the phenomenal morning was culminated by sightings of a Red Fox, large male bear and a sow with two cubs all just off the coast road back east of town. An unbeatable few hours in Churchill.
Guide Karen and her group also came upon a “chase-out” when they were touring toward Cape Merry just past the Anglican Church and the cracker shells rang out. The big bear was in the willows just over the hill and was not cooperating. Finally, a Hudson Bay Helicopter was summoned to hover lowly over the area thus stirring up the snow cover. This did the trick as the bear retreated across the road toward Jockville and down to the beach. Continuing on, the group’s bus reached Cape Merry in time for a view of the aforementioned bear-lift trolling directly overhead, across the river and past Fort Prince of Wales. If only La Peruse could see this. The group then heard another set of crackers and watched a bear swimming back toward town just off the coast past the rocky shore. Intense.
From the air; Guide Paul reported his guests seeing some Caribou in Wapusk National Park. These, have been the first reported sightings this season of the ungulates from the helicopters. Many bears moving all over the park including a mom and cubs when the group landed at Nester 2 for some, albeit brief, tundra time. The flight over the expansive park is always a surprise for all.
Guide Brent also reported constant movement of over 40 bears his group saw throughout the day in the CWMA. They headed out early to the coast and caught bears in kelp beds, on the edge of the ice, and tag- team sparring where two bears would go at it then rest while another two wrestled upright with heavy limbs and paws. The day had began by seeing an Arctic Hare… “right out of the chute” as Brent aptly phrased it. This surely was a good omen for the rest of the day. It all came together in the awesome, soft light on the tundra.
All in all, it was craziness out there….even when Guide Sandra’s travelers’ rover was held hostage by an aggressive male. After sampling the mud flaps behind most of the wheels, he stomped, huffed and chuffed for a long while before allowing the vehicle to move on. This all happened just past the launch site. After that, the day included many, many bears, an Arctic Hare and some Glaucous Gulls mostly out near Gordon Point.
The perfect finishing touch to an amazing day was an aurora display later that evening following the cultural presentations.
by Steve Selden | Nov 10, 2009 | Churchill News, Tour News
Conservation must be running low on cracker shells as Churchill is clearly under siege by Polar Bears. Seemingly non-stop fire, day and night, continue keeping everyone on their toes. I cannot remember any season in the past ten or so with so many bear incidents near town. Everywhere we go there are bears. The combination of them being very healthy and the lack of any severe weather have kept the flow of bears moving all around Churchill. Bear lifts seem to be a common occurrence as film crews are happily financing some while others are on Conservation’s tab.
A bear lift relocates the animal about 45 miles north of Churchill. Katie deMeulles photo.
Guide Eric and his photography group roamed around Cape Merry in the fantastic light. Blustery wind kept the animals in shelter though they did come across a Red fox sleeping. He was unfazed by his sudden fame and only raised his head a single time just to keep the shutters snapping. Capturing the amazing geological presence of the Canadian shield and the beautiful starkness of the partially snow covered rocks as they flow into the Hudson Bay and Churchill River was the challenge of the afternoon.
The rarest and most incredible find of the day however was Guide Paul’s contingent coming upon a Wolverine with its’ dark brown chestnut body just below the cemetery as the group was heading to launch for a day on the tundra. Its’ short, bushy tail was flailing around while it ran with short strides through the rocks and willows over to the dog yard finally bounding across the meadowy area into the distance. This was a first sighting of the long-rumored, elusive creature this season. And a rare one at that. Later, the insanity on the tundra continued with many mother and cub family units and sparring males continuing to hone their skills while building muscle and respect. The group spotted between 12 – 15 bears over the course of their day. Red Polls were spotted as well in small doses fluttering over the tundra.
Guide Sandra and travelers were enthralled with incessant sparring by heavy male Polar Bears out towards Halfway Point. The bears were really getting into character in the afternoon light as their white fur, which is actually clear… appearing white as it absorbs light, was red stained from each other’s blood. No major injuries were sustained as the bears seem to know when to back off each other before inflicting any damage they may jeopardize survival. In such a stark environment of white and gray, the red stands out and highlights the fragility of life even of these massive animals. Another unique day in the North.
