Report from Churchill: November 9, 2010

A light dusting of snow restored some of the Winter feel to the region and made for more picturesque wildlife viewing . Polar bears continue to move across the tundra although each day seems to present different circumstances and inconsistent behavior between the bears. Most likely this comes as a result of the crazy, unusual weather fluctuations over the course of the season so far. “Unsettled”; pretty much describes the Fall season thus far.

Churchill polar bear.

In the morning around 11Am,out at the Polar Bear Compound, a sow and coy were bailed out of jail by TFI french TV, netted up and flown up North to Seal River area for release. Because the compound is only at half capacity at the moment, we know that flight “sponsorship” was provided in order to document the experience. Guide Amy and her travelers were fortunate to be on tour and were able to make it out to watch the whole production. As many of these as I’ve witnessed; they never get old…watching polar bears fly overhead in nets dangling from helicopters ..most likely one of the only places on earth to find that thrill.

Meanwhile out on the CWMA tundra, Guide Karen and her group were “rovering” around exploring the vast, frosted tundra. Three different groups of ptarmigan were spotted throughout the day while the tide in the Hudson Bay was way out early on and then in close to the barrier beaches afternoon. Perhaps that tide pushed some polar bears farther inland later on as Karen’s group searched.  Churchill polar bear.

The morning had offered distant looks through binoculars at a number of bruins roaming the land though not many up close. Sporadic wind swept  snow over the frozen thermakarsts capturing shimmering rays of sunlight filtering through clouds above. Suddenly, a group of four bears was spotted heading in toward their rover from a considerable distance. Moving slowly from such a far distance, the group wasn’t sure if they would come near enough for a close encounter. Two of the bears split off and went a different direction but the other two kept coming. Soon they came closer..then even closer and sure enough bee-lined right to the rover. The two walked around the rover; seemingly a friendly pair though also shooting a watchful eye at one another….investigated underneath the vehicle and then stood and leaned with paws pressing onto the side of the rover. They spent some time sparring as well and swatted and clenched jaws in mock -fighting mode.  Finally,after about three  hours, one moved away toward the tundra lodge while the other stayed for a rest alongside the group. Two other rovers came on the scene but the bear seemed to claim Karen’s as his and proceeded to tear off a piece of trim work from their rover as a sign of that affection. He proudly displayed it to all…tossing it up and gnawing on it a little. A rover tooth!

The buzz around town was Martha Stewart. She made it to Churchill to see some polar bears. Stewart bypassed the polar bear “compound”. We all know her…right? She own’s her own company providing all those perfect home furnishings….oh and yeah, she’s also convicted felon. She was convicted of obstructing justice stemming from the sale of nearly 4,000 shares of Imclone Systems back in December 2001 a day before the share price tumbled due to the FDA rejecting the company’s bid for approval of it’s cancer drug Erbitux. Stewart’s stock broker’s assistant testified that he was instructed to tip her off about the decision which was not made public until after the loss in share price. Stewart averted a $51,000 loss and professed her innocence to keep her stockholders trust. She served five months in prison and six months under house arrest….and never admitted guilt. Conversely,  I wonder how many unknowing people lost their retirement funds? Just  thought I would jog everyone’s memory…it’s a “good thing” right?

Report from Churchill: November 8, 2010

Churchill aurora.

Photo: Katherine Hamilton

The aurora was hiding behind cloudy skies last night though visible somewhat far out of town near the weir off Goose Creek Rd. along the Churchill River. Guide Eric escorted his entourage of travelers out in the darkness away from the big city lights of Churchill. Once you get past the few residences of Goose Creek sub-division( where Bill Calnan resides), there’s not much out there besides boreal forest and the town water pumping station at the end of the long dirt and gravel road. A fantastic birding destination in the Spring and Summer months..sometimes an odd polar bear can be rooting around the tall willows anytime of year. It’s an strange feeling when the darkness surrounds you and you’re outside your vehicle….imagining what could sneak from the willows.

Eric and group were out near the tundra lodge most of this day and witnessed a number of bears sparring sporadically…not going at it too long but then returning and pawing each other some more. A really clean, white arctic fox yesterday had come on the scene yesterday with the soft light illuminating his coat …. no sign of him today. Later in the day a sow with a coy approached from far out on the inland plain to the Southeast. The pair moved to within a quarter mile away on the perimeter of the large lake close to the lodge. Always a thrill to watch bears approach from far away and come into focus nearby.

Guide Steve and his photo group were in the same vicinity and the very end of the day provided for what Steve characterized as “one of the most amazing photographic experiences he’s seen in Churchill”. Two bears were sleeping next to each other and they rose up just as the light became glorious. They interacted a bit then moved in front of the lodge to the lake ending up at the back end of the icy surface. The scene, especially in this light, was worth the wait…

Guide Scott and group found sparring action just as they were pulling close to the tundra lodge near the trail crossing to the South. Nearer in by the lodge a sleuth of bears moved about at times and two bears were spotted out near the coast by the tidal flats. A large 800lb male soon arose from his nap in the willows and pushed out a smaller bear just for fun and moved under the rover’s back deck ..looking up curiously through the steel grate. Awhile later two bears behind the lodge were sparring pretty intently when a third bear joined the fray and then all three were slipping and rolling at times on the ice of the lake just to the South. Reminds me of the Boston Bruins in the playoffs the past few seasons.Churchill polar bear.

The rover headed out to Halfway Point and soon viewed a sow and coy through the scope heading directly toward them. As they neared the large thermakarst nearby, a male cut them off and the two walked around the edge of the lake a bit unsure of the lone bear. Without incident the mom led her coy Northwest a little and they settled in rolled and pushed back at each other with their paddle-like feet. the coy seemed to mimic her mom’s actions then finally got up on her back to sleep. Great interactions.

On Guide Amy’s first day out with her group, the excitement of  their first polar bear sighting was eclipsed by continuous sightings throughout the day. Amy noted that the bears had incredible energy as they rolled, wiggled and interacted with renewed interest as the temperatures cooled somewhat from the previous days. Numerous bears were observed rolling over on their backs and stretching their paws to the cloudy sky. A major highlight was the mom and coy that Scott’s group witnessed on the frozen lake. the coy was imitating mom’s behavior of snow -plowing and rolling..eventually tiring and nestling onto mom’s back buried in her fur coat as they lay on the shore. Occasionally she would look up, peering through fur to keep a watchful eye. Mom has taught her well.

All were happy upon returning  to the lodge area and photographing mud -outlined paw prints on the rear frame of the rover. These bears will leave their marks.

Report from Churchill: November 7, 2010

On a warmer day in the Churchill region, the snow on the tundra was getting sparse and polar bear movement was more hit and miss, depending on location of rovers. Bears do not move around too much when the mercury gets close to 40f…what seems still cool to us is quite warm to those animals with thick fur covered bodies. Cooler temperatures are predicted and the possibility of snow in the next day or so is increasing. Quite a contrast to the three major storms that hit Churchill by this time last year. There is no regularity to weather patterns it seems these days.

Churchill polar bear.

Photo: Paul Brown

The tundra lodge area  is still the place where bears tend to congregate. Guide Bonnie and colby had numerous sightings of sparring bears and it seems there are some heavyweights that have moved into the vicinity. The action was a little slower’ with many lounging or sleeping bears, but a number of rovers lingered in the area, even though bears were still scattered around the coastal areas. However, if too many vehicles come to one spot, it can diminish the feeling of being on the vast sub-arctic tundra. So, observing for awhile , then moving on to other areas usually is the norm. Often the move to another place in the CWMA can provide an incredible surprise sighting, and other times just the rough ,wild landscape is all that’s found. Either way, being on the tundra on the coast of the Hudson Bay evokes feelings of awe brought on by exploring pristine wilderness searching for wildlife.

Guide Bonnie had her group searching for any signs of bird life out near Gordon point and came upon a glaucous gull, seven black guillemots, and seven king common eiders. The search continues for the elusive snowy owl. Two years ago ,I believe it was, there seemed to be a snowy owl on every spruce tree on the tundra as well as each hydro Manitoba pole lining the road out of town. Everything seems to go in cycles in the North. I do know if there was a snowy owl in the area, Bonnie would spot it.

Travelers with guide Paul had a “good day” being fortunate to have numerous bear encounters throughout the day. Even though the general bear activity is slow right now, the group had a few males walking very close to their rover as they situated themselves near the lodge. this strategy of spending a good part of the day near the lodge paid off as bears moved around from time to time.

Later on the rover pushed out to Christmas Lake esker, an old rise of deposited rocks and organic debris deposited by under-ice glacial water flow, and came across a healthy flock of rock ptarmigan. Making their way, near the end of the day, to Halfway Point, a very memorable, beautiful male polar bear came out of the rocks as if to send the group off with an arctic farewell. The gorgeous clean white fur absorbed the glowing pinks of the sunset to the West shimmering off the flat water of the Hudson Bay. Sometimes a perfect ending to a trip happens for travelers and this was surely that.

Churchill polar bear.

Photo: Colby Brokvist

Report from Churchill: November 6,2010

Temperatures moved up over the freezing mark with sunny skies overhead. This slight warm-up, somewhat unusual, is a reprieve from the wind- chills of the past week. Churchill polar bear.

Guide Sandra’s group was out on the land in CWMA and early on viewed a male polar bear striding gingerly on his back toes across an icy thermakarst. With the soft light of the pinkish sunrise surrounding the tundra, the scene was a great start to the day.  Later out around the tundra lodge, two sub -adults sparred with each other for what seemed like hours. Bouts of play- fighting seem to last longer now with increased stamina. With the temperature a little higher some tension was evident as aggressive behavior by some sub-adult males towards a couple of females spurred some frothing and muffled growls by the females.

Guide Paul and group were out exploring the area around Churchill and spotted a polar bear down near the grain port ponds. They followed in there bus as the bear moved behind the Anglican church at the corn er of town by the Hudson Bay. Soon Manitoba Conservation officers were on the scene chasing the bruin off with cracker shells. The bear disappeared over the rocks heading in the direction of Cape Merry. This bear was a “release” bear having been captured earlier in the season. Green paint on the shoulder identifies such animals.

Travelers with guide Brad were also out exploring when they came upon the old downed transport airplane on the coast road. Overloaded with soda cases and supplies heading North nearly 30 years ago, it could not get enough lift and crash landed softly in snow drifts amongst the rocks. The two pilots walked back to the airport to report their own crash.  The group was taking some photo’s when a red fox appeared from the willows. Wildlife can be anywhere in the Churchill region.Churchill polar bear.

Later on their night rover trip to the CWMA, they viewed some male polar bears moving slowly around the lodge and a sow with coy keeping their distance from the area on the approaching trail. With all the big males in the area mom was keeping a watchful eye on the little one.

Report from Churchill: November 5, 2010

On a cool partly sunny day, guide Brad’s rover driver positioned his travelers near the tundra lodge in view of two polar bears coming towards each other, feeling each others presence and finally ending up on the gloss ice surface of a giant thermokarst. In the early morning, the ice reflected the pinkish, reddish tones of the sunrise and made for a perfect backdrop for the next couple of hours. As the bears made their way onto the ice they seemed to skate on the mirrored surface..slipping slightly but stopping in time to get running starts into a confrontation. As the two sparred incessantly all over the lake’s surface, another sparring was taking place in the area. However, this was surely the feature bout on the ice, continuing into the willows, and around snow drifts. Great morning just below the “squared” arctic circle.

Churchill polar bears sparring.

Polar bears sparring in the icy encrusted willows. Paul Brown photo.

The group caught glimpse of an arctic hare which has been rare this season. A little later a male polar bear in the same area found a stray goose wing on the tundra and preceded to play with it…throwing it into the air on the icy pond time and time again. Also, lying on his back, he pawed at it and held it up with two paws as cameras clicked. Pretty cool, a rare occurrence.

Arctic hare.

An Arctic hare hides in the rocks. Colby Brokvist photo.

Guide Elise and her travelers had a very full day with a tour around Churchill before heading out to the tundra in the early evening. As they headed out around Churchill after breakfast, they could hear cracker shots from around the inukshuk on the bay behind the town complex. The shuttle radio crackled about a polar bear near Brian Ladoon’s dogs near the boreal gardens just off the coastal access road on the town outskirts. Once out there, they saw a Manitoba Conservation truck(polar bear alert) and continued down the road, near the dog kennel area, and sure enough, a bear was in the open. The group watched cracker shots exploding around the big male and he eventually ran across the highway road heading towards the railroad tracks. Quite the scene to witness first- hand

From there the group headed out to the polar bear compound and then over to Lyon’s Park nestled in the boreal forest closer to the coastal road.  Out around the shuttle, they found fox scat which guests from Cleveland Zoo were photographing when surprisingly a red fox appeared on scene. He was first spotted up on the quartzite rock outcroppings in amazing light and then inquisitively approached quite closely before dodging in and out of the rocks…amazing!

Incredibly this experience was overshadowed by a bear lift after lunch. When guests figured out what the “surprise” Elise had for them, it was if someone had won the lottery…tremendous excitement!” Best Churchill area tour ever! “; according to Elise.
Later, en route to lodge in their polar rover, two bears were spotted …one digging in overflow ice possibly for an arctic stickleback. These fish have the unique ability to slow their heart rate substantially and basically freeze their bodies to survive the long Winter. Other groups had witnessed a fox finding stickleback in the same creek two days ago.

Tundra lodge.

Night shot of the tundra lodge in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area. NHA photo.

An arctic fox greeted the group as they arrived around the lodge area and he seemed to dance like a star below the stars in the floodlights beaming from the lodge. Another big timid male polar bear was in view…possibly a new kid on the block?

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